Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
We heard that the Royal Palace (Quirinal) could be seen, and
accordingly visited it. After inscribing our names in a visitors’
book, we were shown round the rooms by an attendant. The palace is
on the Quirinal Hill, and is one of several which the King of Italy
maintains; some of which, I doubt not, he would gladly dispense with,
as adding unnecessarily to the cost of his establishment. It formerly
belonged to the Popes, and the room was shown us in which the cardinals
used to sit in conclave for the election of the Pope, which, when
completed, was announced from a balcony to the people congregated
outside. There are several spacious apartments in the building, adorned
by some interesting paintings and sculptures. We were taken through
the audience and other public _salons_, including the ballroom, which
is decorated in a peculiar manner, especially by mirrors, on which
appropriate figures have been depicted. The ceiling is painted to
represent dancers in the air, and the floor is of polished wood. Some
of the rooms are tapestried. A franc to the attendant, and a half–franc
to the porter who had charge of our umbrellas, was all that was
expected.
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The grounds of some of the villas about Rome are also opened to the
public; but they are not kept with the neatness and tidiness which
characterize gentlemen’s grounds at home. The most important or most
extensive is probably the Villa Borghese. The gate of entrance to this
great park, laid out in a way which is peculiarly Italian, is just
outside the Porta del Popolo. The grounds are open daily, except on
Mondays, and it is a favourite resort for all classes in the afternoon.
After a long drive through them we reached the Casino, a building
of many rooms, on two floors, devoted to a very large collection
of sculptures, which well merits several visits. The Roman ladies,
like other Italians, are very fond of driving about in style, with
coachman and footman on the box; and a good part of their afternoon
appears to be spent in these grounds and on the Pincian Hill, which
adjoins, and in the gardens of which a band of music plays in the
afternoons, attracting, as the only public garden—and it is of small
dimensions—which the Romans seem to have, a fashionable crowd. The
Pincian gardens are very prettily laid out, and there are excellent
views of Rome from this height (one of the two highest of the hills of
Rome), especially looking towards St. Peter’s. A splendid survey of the
city is also obtained from the hill on which San Pietro in Montorio
stands, being to the south–west of St. Peter’s, and therefore facing
the Pincian Hill. From both points, as well as from others in Rome, the
eye takes in the prospect of the Campagna, and of the mountains beyond;
among which nestle several villages by name well known, such as Albano,
Frascati, and Tivoli.
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