Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
beautiful fluted pillars and other decorations, sometimes in marble,
still standing, while the walls were tastefully decorated with that
peculiar description of painting well known as Pompeian. Some of the
houses appear to be only one storey high, but stairs indicate a second
storey, and it is even supposed that in some cases there may have been
a third. But they had no appearance to the street, while the streets
themselves are narrow, so much so that it is impossible to see how in
many of them even the smallest carriages could pass each other without
encroaching on the equally narrow footway or _trottoir_ (discovery of
the remains of it here revealing its use in ancient times); but the
large stones or slabs forming the street pavement are in some places
marked with a deep rut, indicating a good deal of carriage traffic.
The shops on the streets are small, and are sometimes built into the
dwellings, so that shop floors then were probably as remunerative as
they seem to be now with ourselves, although persons now in similar
rank of life in Great Britain would little like to allow a portion
of their mansions to be so occupied. As, however, the streets were
so confined, there could have been no view from the house itself
upon the front facing the street; yet, no doubt, from some windows
in the upper apartments behind there might be fine glimpses of the
bay and of Vesuvius, as well as of the surrounding country. At all
events, we obtained excellent views from the ruins, especially from
the walls. Vesuvius appears close at hand, and one feels astonished
at the foolhardiness of people building towns and houses so close
under the fiery mountain after the tremendous warnings received in the
destruction of Pompeii and Herculaneum. We were shown at one place in
the ‘House of Diomede’ a long vault or cellar, in which the remains
were found of seventeen unfortunate persons who had taken refuge there
during the awful time when they knew not where to flee, and supposed
that the walls of the house would cover them from calamity. We could
not look upon such places without thinking what an appalling time it
must have been, and what heartrending agonies must then have been
endured. Notwithstanding all the elegance of the public portions of the
houses, and perhaps even of the private chambers, it seemed as if the
actual comfort of the inhabitants could not be great, and especially in
the matter of bedroom accommodation, for I imagine the sleeping–rooms
were of the smallest dimensions—mere closets, not such as people of the
present day in good circumstances would approve.
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