Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
It would, however, be impossible, in small compass, to give any
adequate idea of these houses or of their decorations. Books have
been written upon the subject, and an excellent recent account of
Pompeii, its history, buildings, and antiquities, containing nearly
300 illustrations, has been written by Dr. Thomas H. Dyer. Nothing,
indeed, but a visit to Pompeii itself can convey a sufficient idea of
the resuscitated city; but a study of Mr. Dyer’s book before going, as
well as after a visit, will help materially to an understanding of it.
Pompeii is a place of engrossing interest entirely unique, and in some
respects it offers, I think, more attractions to a visitor than any
other in Italy, and well merits more than one visit. The excavations
are still proceeding, and it will probably be many years before they
are completed, as there is still a large piece of ground, probably as
much again as has already been opened, on which to operate.
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Having seen Pompeii, we did not care to stay longer at Castellamare,
and next day, taking a carriage with three horses, the bells jingling
cheerily all the way, drove to Sorrento. The drive occupied an hour
and a half, and is considered to be one of the finest to be had in
Italy. The road borders the bay, and passes through several large
Italian villages most picturesquely situated, and across a deep ravine,
evidently the result of an earthquake, by a beautiful bridge. Sorrento
is a long town, and the road through its suburbs is shut in by lofty
and most objectionable garden walls. As we drove down the road towards
it, from the height to the eastward the place looked very charming,
surrounded by hills on every side except the north, which is open to
the sea. Turning down a long narrow lane, we arrived at the Tramontano
Hotel (kept by an Irish landlady, an active and most obliging woman),
where everything is remarkably comfortable, and the accommodation is
ample. It is situated on classic ground, Tasso having resided in a
house which, or its site, is now part of the hotel. A garden, where,
no doubt, Tasso often meditated, encloses the hotel upon the south,
while the north windows and terraces command magnificent views of the
bay, of the islands, of Naples lying opposite, and of Vesuvius, whose
smoke, always ascending, is an excellent indicator of the direction of
the wind. The garden extends away to the eastward, where a dependence
or additional house is kept for the accommodation of the guests. A
large public room, with windows to the bay, was being added to the
main house, so that now both _salon_ and _salle–à–manger_ are large
rooms. Having had experience of the cold of northerly chambers at
Castellamare, we chose cheerful rooms on the south side overlooking
the hotel yard, with all its enlivening bustle, and the garden and
green hills behind.
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