Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
of Italy, and sometimes a considerably higher price is asked than the
seller is prepared to take. I had the specimens purchased put in a
box, carefully packed, to send from Naples home by sea, and found on
entering Naples that _octroi_ duty upon it was exacted, and this not
according to value, but to weight. The wood shops are among the best in
Sorrento, but I was struck with the marvellous likeness there was, in
size at least, in the common small shops of Sorrento to what had been
shops in Pompeii.
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We led a quiet life very pleasantly among friends and acquaintances at
the hotel in Sorrento for about a fortnight, glad of rest after so much
previous sight–seeing; but the hotel was always full, and the constant
jingling of horses’ bells, denoting the arrival or departure of
carriages, kept it lively, while, among other diversions, we witnessed
the Tarantala dancing entertainment, to which I have elsewhere alluded
(p. 72). We had at first thought of going to Cava, with a view to
taking trips thence to Amalfi and Pæstum; but preferring rest, left
that, like many other excursions, to another opportunity, which might
never come. We returned to Naples on 11th April, having a glorious day
for the return drive to Castellamare. The trees were only budding, so
that we did not see things in perfection. As we drove out of the hotel
yard, a man, neither clothed in plush and fine linen nor recently
washed, jumped up and sat on the luggage behind, an undesirable–looking
and unengaged lackey. The driver explained it was to guard the luggage,
which sometimes, I believe, is, by the nimble–fingered inhabitants of
the bay, quietly abstracted if not well roped. It was only, however, a
genteel method of begging for 30 centimes, with which at Castellamare
he was well satisfied. The beggars of Sorrento are certainly
industrious in their calling. I stayed a few minutes at one place to
make a little sketch, and was immediately surrounded by half–a–dozen
women, and at least as many children, all wanting copper. One regular
beggar, a man, old to appearance, who was constantly sauntering about,
stick in hand, amused me much. His address was, as you approached him,
arrestively and decisively, ‘Signor!’ You proceeded a yard farther, and
it was more decisively, or rather imperatively, ‘Signor!’ You passed
him, and it was ‘Signor! Signor!’ (weepingly) ‘povero vecc. he he per
amor di Dio,’ a phrase generally employed by the Italian beggars. It
is, however, but fair to add, that begging in Italy is not nearly so
bad as it once was, for the authorities are setting their face against
it. Still, in some places, it is a great annoyance that one cannot walk
along the streets of a small town like Sorrento without being assailed
by the same everlasting beggar, giving to whom only encourages to ask
again.
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