Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
all were desired to lie down on the bottom of the boat, otherwise, by
catching the crest of a wave, we might have broken our heads against
the rocks of the entrance, which is very low,—although it might, one
would think, be enlarged,—while the boatmen carefully pushed the boat
inside. Once we were in, however, there was space enough for several
boats to paddle about. We found everything bathed in the blue light of
the sea reflected on the walls of the cavern. It is this which gives
the name to the grotto. The rocks themselves are just ordinary colour,
and do not, as might from the name be supposed, consist, like those of
the blue John Cavern of Derbyshire, of actual blue spar.
[Illustration: SORRENTO FROM THE WEST.]
When all had seen the grotto, the steamboats took us to the town of
Capri, which, with another on the hill, is picturesque. There are good
hotels near the landing–place. A long ascent leads to the high town,
near which the palace of Tiberius once stood. From the height I had
a view of the southern coast of Italy; but the day was hot, and the
atmosphere therefore hazy, so that we could not see far. We returned to
Sorrento in the afternoon.
* * * * *
Sorrento is a great place—in fact, the chief place—for the manufacture
of articles of inlaid wood. It is the industry of the town, and
everywhere we found workshops for its manufacture, having attached
to them shops for its sale, although, I presume, the larger part of
the manufacture is for export or transmission elsewhere. As may be
supposed, there is considerable diversity of skill among the workmen,
and many articles exhibit inferiority; but I soon found out in which
shops the best workmanship prevailed, and in particular considered
the articles manufactured by M. Grandville were both well finished
and wrought in good taste. Garguilo also, who has a more imposing
establishment, had some very fine specimens of work. Every visitor buys
more or less, principally, doubtless, to take home as gifts to friends,
and I did not escape the contagion. Some of the articles are extremely
beautiful; and one I secured, which seemed to be one of the finest
examples, was so delicately inlaid that at first sight it seemed as if
it were a painting on the wood. I saw, however, the process by which
the inlaying is effected, which satisfied me with the reality of the
inlaying. A picture is drawn on paper, and little pieces, corresponding
in colour to the pattern, are cut out of larger coloured pieces with
an extremely slender steel saw—almost a thread for fineness. These are
glued down upon the pattern so closely that the joinings are invisible,
and it is in the comparative skill with which this nice operation is
conducted I presume the difference of quality and effect is mainly
found. In purchasing these articles, however, one has not to lose
sight of the fact that the transaction is taking place in the South