Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
out some pieces of hot sulphur from the boiling natural caldron, which
we carried off as souvenirs of our visit to a place which some day may
become the scene of a terrible disaster.
Taking a different route on returning, we passed the supposed tomb
of Virgil; and crossing over the hill, came again in sight at some
distance of Naples, and the continuous stretch of houses along the
coast to the southward. Altogether it was a very interesting drive. Had
we had time for it, we should have gone farther, as far as to Baiæ,
which is a few miles beyond Puteoli.
* * * * *
As illustrative of the method of selling and clutching at a profit,
however small, I may here mention that, going out with a friend from
the hotel, we were waylaid by boys offering walking–sticks for sale.
The first boy asked 2 francs for a cane, my friend offered 1 franc,
and it was at once taken. Thereupon another with much better canes
came up. My friend picked out five of the best, for which he was asked
15 francs, and they were really very cheap at the money. He offered
5 francs and then 6, and to throw in the stick he had just bought of
the other boy. The offer was at once closed with, so that he got for 7
francs five beautiful canes, which, judging from prices asked in the
shops, were worth 20 francs at least.
* * * * *
We had still a good deal to see in Naples; but, not feeling very well,
we were anxious to leave a place the reputation of which for salubrity
is by no means assuring, and departed for Rome by a morning train,
leaving at 7 o’clock and arriving before 2 P.M.
XIV.
_FLORENCE, BOLOGNA._
FLORENCE.
WE stayed in Rome until 27th April, when we left for Florence. We
had intended going round by the attractive town of Perugia, but the
morning of the 26th was wet, and, delaying our departure for a day,
we gave up Perugia, partly because to have gone upon a Friday would
have involved spending a Sunday there. The latter part of our journey
was interesting. On arriving at the outskirts of the town the railway
circumnavigates it, so that we had an opportunity from the very first
of seeing the cathedral dome and campanile, and the other towers and
spires of Florence, which lies beautifully situated in a luxuriantly
verdant valley, enclosed by the Apennines and other hills, and
intersected by the river Arno, which, seeing for the first time in the
soft moonlight in the course of the evening, looked so lovely.