Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
The Lung’ Arno, or bank of the river, where most of the principal
hotels are placed, is considered the best situation, at least for
winter residence. Some of the hotels are unpleasantly near a waterfall
or wear stretching across the river, the incessant din of which is
troublesome at night. We spent a few nights at one of the hotels there,
and afterwards a fortnight at the Pension Molini Barbensi[39], on
the left bank of the river, where we found pleasant society and some
former travelling acquaintances. The house is a good one, and the rooms
are large, but a very little expenditure on sanitary arrangements
would improve it as a residence. Living seems not to be expensive at
Florence, and lodgings can be procured at a moderate rate.
* * * * *
Florence lies upon the same river as Pisa, but I suppose fifty or sixty
miles farther up, and the town bears some resemblance to it, but is
far more picturesque and far more lively and populous. In fact, Pisa
is quite a dull, quiet, dead–alive town beside it. The population of
Florence, at present about 170,000, is four times as great as that of
Pisa, and it has been a royal town as well as a provincial capital.
The river is crossed by six bridges (three, or rather four of them, of
very old date) connecting the north and south portions of the city,
which, however, lies mainly upon the north shore. Of these bridges
(all strongly buttressed against the force of the river, which no
doubt occasionally descends in floods with great power), the Ponte
Vecchio is peculiar and picturesque, and a remnant of old times, being
covered on each side with houses, and on one side, on the top floor,
by the long gallery which connects the Uffizi and Pitti Palaces. These
houses on the bridge are very curious. Next the street they present
to view on both sides small booths or stalls, principally occupied
by goldsmiths or jewellers, which very likely much resemble what the
shops of Old London were, but at the present day do not, for jewellers’
wares, inspire confidence. On the other or river sides, all manner of
chambers in or on the wall project, jut out, and overhang the river,
very perilous to behold, and suggestive of _oubliettes_ through which
murdered travellers on the bridge might be quietly dropped into the
river below, but conferring a quaintness of appearance precious in the
sight of the artist. Equally striking in effect is an adjoining range
of buildings on the left bank—also flanking the river, and with their
projecting chambers overhanging it. In the centre of the bridge large
arched openings enable the passer–by to look up and down the river, and
take in the prospect beyond.
[Illustration: PONTE VECCHIO,—FLORENCE.]