Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Nearer to the principal part of the town the Academia delle Belle Arti
lies—a very extensive collection of paintings in twenty large halls,
besides smaller rooms, the pictures numbering in all 679. These are
all, with the exception of a few of the Dutch school, if I am not
mistaken, the works of Italian artists, most of them by the great
masters, and many on a large scale. Among others is what is considered
Titian’s masterpiece—’The Assumption of the Virgin,’ a clear and
brilliant, a glorious work in point of drawing and colour. In fact,
the colour is perhaps rather too strong in reds and blues. One great
canvas, a grand picture by Paul Veronese of the banquet in Levi’s
house, occupies the entire breadth of the largest hall. The banquet
is represented as held under a remarkably Venetian–looking light
colonnade, open to the outer air, and peopled by characters evidently
clothed in Venetian attire of the painter’s era. But it scarcely does
to scan such works of art with too much regard to accessories. What
appears to be the favourite picture is another Veronese—a Virgin with
a young, naked, little St. John the Baptist standing on a pedestal,
with legs to appearance (it may be merely the effect of shade) of
unequal lengths. There were half a dozen painters when we were there,
engaged in copying the chubby St. John. Copies of it may be seen in
many of the shops of Venice. They are, I fancy, favourites with the
ladies. We paid only one visit to the Academy, but it would take
several visits to do its galleries justice.
* * * * *
The arsenal of Venice, dating back to the year 1104, is well worthy of
a visit for the sake of its museum, an interesting collection of arms
and models of ships, particularly of the grand state gondolas; nothing
but the museum is apparently shown to the ordinary visitor. The arsenal
is not so extensive as it once was. Admission is had by simply entering
one’s name in the visitors’ book, and, as usual at all these show
places where admission is not by payment, giving a small fee to the
_custodes_, one being stationed in each hall.
* * * * *
A steamboat, large enough for the traffic, sailed every hour from the
quay in front of our hotel to the island of Lido, about two miles
distant. We crossed in it one afternoon; and the sail is interesting,
as the vessel passes the other islands, and fine views are had from it
of the town, and, in the distance, of the mountains of the Tyrol. The
island of Lido is long and narrow. Upon landing we walked across to the
other side, about half a mile of road. Here we were on the borders of
the Adriatic. The island is a bright little spot with a few buildings
on it. Returning, we got on board just in time to escape, under cover
of its awning, a thunder–shower which came pelting down very heavily,
and lasted all the time we were on board.
* * * * *