Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
We had now been eight days in Venice, and had been constantly going
about seeing much that was to be seen, but yet only seeing it in a
superficial way. There was no place in Italy which was more attractive.
Its gorgeous palaces and churches, its strange, unique kind of life,
the multitudinous canals teeming with gondolas, and the pleasure of
moving about in them, was something we never could forget. We saw
Venice usually in brilliant sunshine, with everything sparkling in
light, although nearly every afternoon, with a severe punctuality which
enabled us generally to be prepared for it, black clouds gathered, and
a thunderstorm emptied them quickly. But perhaps the most beautiful
sight of all was to see Venice in moonlight. One is familiar with
photographs of the fair city, tinted with a deep blue in imitation of
moonlight effect, a white spot being picked out for the moon herself
(as, of course, the photographs are taken during the day), and I can
hardly say that there is in these pictures much, if any, exaggeration.
The blueness of the sky, and of everything with which the light is
tinged in moonlight, is something remarkable and very lovely, while the
effect is increased when the moon, getting behind a cloud, gives to the
cloud a luminous edging of silver.
* * * * *
We were exceedingly unwilling to leave this bright fairyland,
but became afraid to stay longer. The fact is, that with all its
attractiveness Venice has not, at least to a stranger, the feeling of
healthiness. It drains into the canals, where the tide rises and falls
only 2 feet, and has not force sufficient to carry off the drainage.
The effluvium from the narrow canals is sometimes overpowering, and yet
it is said, as it is said of so many other places one might imagine
insalubrious, that Venice is naturally so healthy that the people are
notedly long–lived; and, indeed, one instance of this occurs in the
case of Titian, who lived to the patriarchal age of ninety–nine. How
this comes, ‘let doctors tell.’