Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
We were fortunate in getting a tolerably clear day for this ascent. I
had intended to go up again on the following Monday, but found it too
cloudy to be of any use. Another rather interesting sight, however,
was in progress that day within the church; for an immense number of
young children—boys and girls—were all seated in long rows round a
vacant space, wherein were priests with candles, and an archbishop or
some other dignitary, who was going round them. The girls were all
dressed in white with white veils, the boys in their best attire,
many of them with white ties and some with white waistcoats. The
children seemed to be from seven to fifteen years of age, and by all
it was evidently regarded as a grand gala–day—something like a public
school examination–day in Scotland, before breaking up for the summer
holidays. They were perhaps receiving confirmation. The procession of
priests stopped at each child in rotation. The old bishop performed
motions with his hands over each—I suppose making the form of the cross
over them, and mumbling something inaudibly. It must have taken a long
time so to go over them all, as there were several hundreds.
* * * * *
The people of Milan have wisely left a large vacant space or piazza in
front of the cathedral, upon its west side, so that one can admire,
without intervening interruption, its beauty from a sufficient
distance. On the south side of the piazza, or rather of the cathedral,
the Royal Palace, a plain building, is situated. The piazza itself
is surrounded on three sides by new and very handsome commercial
buildings, which are quite an ornament to the place; and out of it,
upon the north side, there has been built, at an expense of no less
than £320,000, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele—a splendid arcade, or
rather street or streets of stone buildings, laid out in the shape
of a cross, covered over by an iron and glass vaulted roof, upon the
Crystal Palace model. The main gallery is nearly 1000 feet long, about
50 feet wide, and 94 feet high; and it is occupied in the lower floor
by shops, and the upper floors apparently by warehouses or other
places of business, the façades being of an elegant style adorned by
sculpture. The central dome is particularly graceful, and at night is
lighted up by a circle of gas jets placed round the top. These, with
the other lights, produce a most brilliant effect, and it is scarcely
surprising to find that in the evening the gallery is crowded by
the townspeople and strangers, so that passage through it is rather
difficult. This gallery—really the most perfect thing of the kind I
have seen anywhere—leads out at the other end to another piazza, in
the centre of which a very fine marble monument to Leonardo da Vinci
has been erected. He stands surrounded by four of his pupils, all of
white marble. In another part of the town is the famous picture by that
artist of the Last Supper, a fresco which is almost obliterated. The