Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
charge for admission to see this celebrated work is at the exorbitant
rate of 1 franc per person.
There may be seen gratuitously on the streets of Milan a picture of a
different kind in the elaborately made–up head–dress of the women. In
a pad of hair at the back of the head a dozen or two of long pins, of
more or less magnificence, are stuck, in arrangements to suit the fancy
of the wearer, but most commonly in a fan shape. It is not for man to
pry into the hidden mysteries of the toilet, but it seems scarcely
possible for any woman to effect this elaborate tire unaided, nor is
it probable that the effect is achieved by a daily effort. The amount
of nightly torture by acupressure to which the Milanese women may
therefore subject themselves, in obedience to a law of fashion, is not
agreeable to contemplate. We can only be grateful.
* * * * *
In order to see a little of the town, we took a carriage one afternoon
and drove out in the direction of the Piazza d’Armi, a large open
space about 2000 feet square, outside the inhabited part of the city.
The castle or barracks occupies one side of the square. The noble
Arco della Pace, begun by Napoleon in 1804 as a termination to the
Simplon route, faces the castle on the west side. It is of the same
character as the triumphal arches of the Tuileries at Paris, and the
Piazza Cavour at Florence, and is a beautiful three–arched gateway of
white marble, Corinthian columns supporting an entablature, on the top
of which a hero drives six fiery horses abreast, in utmost peril to
himself and them (were they living), while a man on horseback at each
of the four top corners, in equal peril and in violent action, holds up
a conqueror’s wreath. These figures, being in bronze, will not, it is
supposed, readily commit an act of self–destruction.
On the north side of the piazza there is a large, modern, oval
amphitheatre of wood, and without cover, within which races are held,
and capable of accommodating 30,000 spectators.