Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
attention from all; but it was the dreariest time we had spent since we
left home, reminding us rather too much of Loch Lomond in its normal
condition.
* * * * *
When the Saturday morning came with bright sunshine we were glad to
avail ourselves of it, lest we might become prisoners for another week,
and to be off accordingly for Lugano, which is situated on a portion of
outlying Swiss territory overlapping Italy, so that one has to cross
an odd nook of Switzerland to get from Maggiore to Lake Como. The trip
in the steamboat is pleasant, and in crossing from Baveno to Pallanza,
which is probably about three miles distant by water, we had the good
fortune to see both the Simplon and Monte Rosa through a gap in the
mountains—the latter raising its snowy head in the distance. Pallanza
is a place which some people prefer to Baveno for stopping at in order
to see Lago Maggiore. It is much more of a town, and, commanding the
view of Monte Rosa, has a finer outlook, while it is not very much
farther from Isola Bella and the other islands, a pull to which must
be most enjoyable. From Pallanza the steamer crossed to the other
side of the lake, then went up to Luino, where we disembarked, and
on our leaving it proceeded to the northern extremity with those _en
route_ for the St. Gothard Pass. It was a glorious sail in the bright
sunshine, with Monte Rosa, the Simplon, and also, in the upper portion,
St. Gothard, all appearing snow–clad in view. The porter of the hotel
had asked us to allow him to telegraph for a carriage to be waiting us
at Luino, and willing to oblige him we consented, but we should have
been better to have chosen one for ourselves upon arrival. However, it
was a lovely drive of above two hours and a half to Lugano, part of
the way being by the banks of a river, which was greatly swollen by
the five days’ previous rain. The Hotel du Parc at Lugano is nicely
situated near the lake at the entrance to the town, and has a small
garden attached to it. It was formerly a monastery, and is built as a
large square house, with a courtyard in the middle. Bædeker recommends
Lugano as a very pleasant place for a lengthened stay; and it may be
so, but we were anxious to get on to Lake Como to rest there, and
remained only three nights.