Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Hot sunny weather succeeded the week of rain, so that we enjoyed walks
by the banks of the gleaming lake, plucking the wild–flowers, which
were abundant, though not of many kinds. The town of Lugano looks
very well in the distance—a mile off—at the head or north end of the
lake, but it is not particularly enticing in itself, and it lies too
much on the level of the water, so that the road was, when we arrived,
half covered, the lake having, in consequence of the continued rain,
overflowed its banks. The Lake of Lugano looks bold, and in a storm
would look angry, from the fact that except at the north end the
mountains appear to dip almost sheer down upon it. I believe the sail
from the other end to Lugano (which is what those who purchase circular
tickets from Milan obtain a coupon for) is very grand, but a gentleman
I subsequently met told me he had experienced a terrific storm upon it,
in which the vessel was in the greatest danger, as the sailors could
not see where they were being driven to, by reason of a dense fog.
Upon the Monday we walked in a broiling sun, from which we could not
always obtain shelter, about two miles up the road leading to the top
of San Salvatore, which, 3000 feet high, is the great ascent here, and
to those in good health and active, the exercise is rewarded by an
extensive prospect, while a hotel offers refreshment on the summit.
Choosing shady places where to rest, we spent a charming day upon this
road, which everywhere commanded fine views, particularly down upon the
lake and up to the snowy mountains of the St. Gothard range.
In the old church adjoining the hotel there are three frescoes by
Luini, a pupil of Leonardo da Vinci. The principal fresco, that
of the Crucifixion, is a curious large picture, containing within
it, expressively depicted and cleverly arranged, all the different
scenes connected with the death of our Saviour, from His trial to His
ascension. But the three crosses are lengthened to what represents 20
feet at least, in order to admit of use being made of the background.
Many angels are ministering to our Lord, while one angel is on the
cross of the repentant thief, and a devil crawling along the other
cross has charge of his sinful fellow. A skull and cross–bones at
the foot of the central cross indicate the place to be Golgotha. The
picture is quite a study.
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