Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Here we remained for about a fortnight, resting and enjoying our rest.
From our windows we looked across to lofty mountains on the opposite
shore, with Cadenabbia and Menaggio lying at their foot, while away to
the north end of the lake a range of snowy peaks rose as if barricading
exit in that direction, and forming a fine, important feature in
the landscape. The Lake of Como is in fact completely hemmed in by
high, steep, bare mountains, which fall with considerable abruptness
down upon it, leaving but a small border of land for cultivation
and habitation. The principal mountain opposite Bellaggio is San
Crucione, which rises to a sharp peak, taking six or seven hours to
ascend; but it is stated to command striking views of the snowy Alps,
and especially of the Monte Rosa chain, ‘une armée de géants.’ The
mountain itself is no doubt a study for the geologist, as it offers
a most extraordinary exhibition of upheaval of strata, the face of
it showing in a great waving line, commencing near the margin of the
lake and sloping up the face to near the top, a huge stratum of rock,
which in the distance appears to be of sandstone, but more likely is of
limestone formation, uplifted probably nearly 3000 feet.
The borders of Lake Como are fringed with trees, in some places a few
hundred feet up, and dotted with those small, picturesque Italian
villages, each with its church and campanile, which always give such a
charm to the landscape.
* * * * *
The town of Bellaggio is small but rather curious. Where it borders
the lake an arcade has been formed, with terraces projecting from the
houses and covering the roadway. In this arcade and elsewhere a few
small shops offer articles for sale, and particularly small things in
olive wood, the manufacture of which is an industry of the place. The
wood is more darkly marked than at Sorrento or in the south of France,
sometimes to the extent of being blotchy. Photographs, principally of
the lake scenes and sculptures in the neighbourhood, can be procured,
but, though good, they are dear for Italy.