Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Half–way up the hill at the foot of which Bellaggio stands, reached
by a steep road, is the Villa Serbelloni. This is now a dependance of
the ‘Grande Bretagne,’ and in the season is said to be always full.
It is a _pension_ for protracted stay, not for a passing night. What
the comforts of the house itself may be, whether the _pension_ be good
or not, I do not know; but the house is most charmingly situated,
surrounded by the extensive grounds of the place, nicely laid out with
long terrace walks winding up the hill, crowned on the top by the ruin
of what was probably an old castle. The hill is covered with trees,
affording delicious shade from the sun, while the roses climb about
them to a height of 50 or 60 feet, and with the other flowers make it
a sort of enchanted land. From the top of the hill, views are had all
round and up the lake to the snowy mountains of the Splugen Pass, and
down the lake, which here is forked, one prong running in the direction
of Como, and the other of Lecco.
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It was hot sunshine all the time we were at Bellaggio, diversified by
two grand thunderstorms, accompanied by vivid flashes of lightning,
sheet and forked, one of which flashes set fire to a tree or a church
on the opposite shore. It was a dreamy life, too hot to do very much;
but there was always a little excitement at the departure and arrival
of the steamboats, which go up and down the lake, and to and from
Lecco, several times a day; and if we had no better amusement, it was
great fun to feed the fishes abounding in the lake; the water being
so clear one could see their every motion, and watch the caution with
which, proportioned to their age and consequent experience, they would
approach the bread. When a piece was thrown in, there would be a
general assembly to the spot. The young ones would at once dart at it,
trying to seize it, but, being much too big for their little mouths,
ineffectually. Then, after a little, larger ones would come snuffing at
it without touching; by and by, perceiving no symptom of hook or line,
would get bolder, and, thinking all safe, would venture to the attack.
Then still larger ones would come and swim in large circles round and
round it, thinking, thinking, till possibly the piece was gobbled up by
younger ones before their thoughts were matured. But generally there
would be quite a scramble and a splutter, twenty fishes together, after
a single piece, which got less and less by successive dabs, till a big
fellow made a dart and swallowed it whole. But sometimes the piece was
too large for even his throat; it was speedily disgorged, and then
another scramble took place, till it wholly disappeared among them.
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