Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
The Swiss village of Splugen has a southern exposure, and lies very
picturesquely with its church on the slope and top of a little
eminence, at an altitude of 4757 feet above the sea, overlooking a
valley out of which lofty mountains raise their heads, one of them
to the north behind the village itself. Pine forests are planted on
the slopes, affording, no doubt, a little shelter from the cold north
winds. Like all such places, it looks best at a little distance; and,
approaching it from the opposite hill, it seemed a pretty village of
wooden houses, built in the Swiss chalet style, and therefore quite
a change from the Italian houses to which our eyes had been for the
last few months accustomed. The accommodation was primitive. We were
lodged in a large wooden hotel. The temperature, too, and the aspect
of everything was changed. We had bidden adieu to the heat of Italy,
and found it much colder upon the northern side of the mountains.
This produced an accident which was annoying to me, and created a
good deal of after trouble, as in winding up my watch at night the
chain gave way, I presume, owing to the jump from great heat to frosty
cold to which it had been subjected. The attempt I afterwards made
in Switzerland to get it repaired only made matters worse, and the
ultimate repair at home costly. One would almost require to carry a
spare watch in travelling among these localities. We had time to see
a little of Splugen in the evening. The fields were literally covered
with bright flowers, tempting us to pluck many handfuls. Although
standing so high, the valley does not give one the impression of its
great elevation.
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