Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Interlachen, with which we had many associations, is a charming spot at
which to remain for some time, and I arranged for my family to stay at
the Jungfrau Hotel _en pension_, which they did for above two months,
and during part of this time I went home on a flying visit. It is an
admirable centre for excursions, while the place itself is, especially
in the height of the season, exceedingly attractive. The hotels are for
the most part situated on the north side of the high road conducting in
one direction to Thun and Berne, and in the other to Brienz, Meyringen,
and Lucerne, always full of life. Though the hotels are large, they
retreat from the road, and have not the towny look which large hotels
generally have. The trees, and the flowers, and the pretty chalets,
and the wood–carving shops, and the background of mountains—all confer
a rustic look, as seen from the highway, which is greatly enhanced
by the large open field so properly kept open upon the south side of
the road, lined by fine old trees, between which one catches sight
of the picturesque church and the equally picturesque houses at some
distance, and behind them the ranges of green mountains and the conical
tree–covered hill called the Jungfraublick; but beyond all, the grand
view of the majestic snow–clad Jungfrau itself, fifteen miles off, seen
at the termination of the magnificent vista afforded by the gap in
the mountains which lie between it and Interlachen; by a road through
which Grindelwald, Lauterbrunnen, the Wengern Alp, and the Murren are
reached—all glorious excursions.
Then there are the Lakes of Thun and Brienz, both affording delightful
steamboat trips, and in the locality round about innumerable walks.
However, like most places among the mountains, great changes in the
weather often take place, and frequent thunderstorms with drenching
rain, intermingled with glowing hot days, are experienced. We had a
fair share of both.
* * * * *
When I thought to make a run to Scotland, I found that leaving by a
train to Berne at 9.50 A.M., and proceeding by Neufchatel and Dijon,
I could get to Paris by 5.35 next morning, stopping two hours by the
way at Berne. On the return journey, leaving Paris at 7.40 evening,
I did not get to Interlachen till near dinner–time next day, being
compelled to spend four hours again at Berne. These stoppages are
annoying to those who have been at Berne before, and, as a train leaves
just immediately antecedent to the arrival of the train from the north,
they might at least in that case easily be avoided. But probably the
intention is to compel a short stay at Berne.
* * * * *
We had heard Chateau d’Œx highly spoken of as a pleasant, cool retreat,
where we might be invigorated by Highland breezes for the coming winter.