Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Having engaged a carriage for this rather long drive, we left
Interlachen on 28th August about 7.30 A.M., and had a splendid but
cruelly hot day. The distance, I should imagine, might possibly be
fifty miles, if so much; for certainly we did not go on an average at
a greater speed than five miles per hour,—considerable part of the way
being indeed just crawling up the hill. After leaving Interlachen by
the south bank of Lake Thun, we soon got into the shade of the hill,
and it was chilly, causing all wraps to be in requisition. Reaching
high ground over Spiez, we took our last view of Interlachen in the
distance, with the smoke of morning fires hanging over it. From this
point the road lay in a long valley between two ranges of hills, which,
after those we had been so long looking upon, did not appear high.
Everything was now in bright sunshine, and the valley and the slopes
were so verdant and luxuriant as to make the drive lovely, though
scarcely, except at one or two parts, could it be called grand. We
passed many little villages, all looking so sleepy in the sun, but
evidently prosperous. Soon after twelve we stopped at the little town
of Boltigen, to rest the horses for two hours and dine at the hotel
with the sign, life–size, of the gilded bear, kept by a pleasant young
woman, who strove to make us comfortable. The road after Boltigen
was still up hill till we reached a point whence descent is made to
Sarnen, the centre of the famous Gruyère cheese district, and soon
after we came in sight of Chateau d’Œx, with its picturesque church,
formerly a castle, on the top of an isolated conical hill, from which
the small town takes its name. This chateau or church at once arrests
the eye, and gives character to the place; but the town itself lies
at the foot of the eminence, and is 3260 feet above the sea. Bold
mountains, well wooded, rise on every side, and are probably, some of
them, 5000 or 6000 feet high—all contributing to fill a considerable
river in the valley a good way below. There are several hotels in
the town, and chalet pensions on the slopes above, the pension in
all being amazingly moderate, somewhat upon the scale which formerly
prevailed throughout Switzerland. The Hotel Berthod, at which we
stopped, accommodates about eighty people, and is built of wood, the
appointments being somewhat rough, though clean. The season is short,
but the hotel is for part of the time full. As it is so much out of the
beaten track, the society is probably more select than it sometimes is
in other parts of Switzerland. For the active, there are abundance of
nice walks in the immediate neighbourhood. The air, though in day–time
hot, was invigorating; but as we were getting near the end of the
season, it had a tendency at night at this elevation to get cold. We
therefore only spent eight days there, though very pleasantly.
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