Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
I HAD thought it might have been possible to arrange for proceeding
across country from Lyons to Biarritz by a westerly line, say by
Clermont, instead of by the Mediterranean line, which we had already
travelled. But although there are lines in that direction, it seemed
extremely difficult to make them fit in so that we could, upon
stopping at any place, obtain next day a train at a suitable hour
for prosecuting the journey. Not only so, but being quite out of the
ordinary beat of tourists, and especially of English tourists, one
could not possibly rely on getting such hotel accommodation by the way
as is desirable and is procurable on the beaten tracks. I therefore
gave up this thought, though not till after some laborious studies
of the _Livret Chaix_, and after consulting Cook’s agent at Geneva,
who, I found, did not issue tickets towards Biarritz. There seemed
no alternative, therefore, but to go by the Chemin de Fer du Midi,
the Paris and Marseilles Railway. We had hoped, it being the 12th
September, to have seen the Rhone in all its summer beauty, but were
disappointed. The day was dull and misty when we started, and soon
after it began to rain; so that we could see little, and everything
looked dismal, whereas in summer sunshine the prospect is no doubt very
lovely. Before we reached Avignon (in six hours ten minutes) the rain
ceased. We stopped a night there (see p. 135), and had fortunately good
weather. Next afternoon brought us to Nismes, two hours distant from
Avignon by rail; and after another night in our old quarters there,
and seeing places this time in sunshine instead of shrouded by the
mistral, which prevailed during our visit in the previous year, we
left at mid–day for Toulouse, arriving at this large city about eleven
o’clock at night. There is not another train by which we could have
proceeded from Nismes to Toulouse during day, nor is there any place
nearer Toulouse where it is desirable to stop except Montpellier; but
Montpellier is only an hour distant from Nismes, and better adapted,
therefore, for stoppage coming from Toulouse on the return journey,
and on our return journey we accordingly spent a night there. Cette,
where we changed carriages and were long detained for no apparent
good reason, and where there are extensive salines or manufactories
of salt, lies very low and is marshy. It is therefore considered a
most unhealthy spot, not to be thought of for sleeping at. The journey
to Cette is not particularly interesting. Beyond it to Toulouse the
country is more inviting. The distance is about 136 miles, and the
train most tiresomely stopped several minutes at every little station,
twenty–nine or thirty in all, with an extra halt at Narbonne, amounting
to twenty minutes, where a hasty though acceptable dinner waited the
arrival of the train. The more interesting part of the road was passed
in the dark.
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