Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
On leaving Chateau d’Œx, we took the diligence to the pretty large
town of Aigle, and to reach it had slowly to ascend the mountains to
an altitude of between 5000 and 6000 feet. It was a most charming ride
or walk, and I got out and walked several miles ahead of the lumbering
conveyance. The descent from the summit of the pass continues to
Sepey, a village where we halted for lunch, and said to be another
charming centre, with pension upon the same moderate scale as we had
just experienced. The views here were very fine, but the place itself
did not strike me as so desirable as Chateau d’Œx, although it has the
advantage of being more accessible. From Sepey we descended to Aigle,
where there is a large hotel or hydropathic establishment just out of
the town. The diligence deposited us at the railway station nearly an
hour previous to the train to Montreux on the Lake of Geneva being due.
From its comparatively sheltered situation, Montreux is much frequented
during winter months, and it is a little warmer than Geneva or
Lausanne; but during part of the winter the temperature of Montreux is,
I believe, lower than that of London and Edinburgh, so that possibly
it may therefore not be suitable as a winter resort for those having
delicate constitutions. The picturesque and interesting Castle of
Chillon lies about two miles off, nearer the upper end of the lake.
Our bedroom windows commanded the view of the lake, together with the
Dent du Midi in the distance, so that the prospect was always pleasing.
Montreux is rather too much of a town, and the walls and houses shut
out almost completely the sight of the lake from the road or street.
The adjoining town of Clarens, nearly united to it, appears to be, on
the whole, nicer for summer residence.
After being at Montreux for a few days, we left by the steamboat, and
had a lovely sail to Geneva, where, in the afternoon, just before
dinner, we obtained a good glimpse of Mont Blanc in the distance
unveiled. Besting one night, we proceeded to Lyons by train next day,
and were once more in France.
XVIII.
_BIARRITZ._