Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
We had been recommended to the Hotel de Paris, near the rocks, and,
with some difficulty, the town being then very full, got accommodation
in it; rough enough at the first, but after two nights we obtained a
change to first–floor rooms, fairly good. The hotel is situated in a
public square planted with trees, the north end being open, overlooking
the sea. Here the band played every evening, Sunday included, from
half–past 8 till 10 o’clock during the season, making our rooms for the
time very noisy; but as our windows looked right down upon the seated
enclosure, brightly lighted up with numerous lamps, it was a little
variety and divertisement to watch the gay crowd with whom it was at
first filled, who paid for admission half a franc each. The charges
in the hotels and for lodgings at Biarritz are said to be, during
the summer season, immoderately high, and to cost in some cases as
much as £5 per day. I cannot help thinking, however, that there must
be a little exaggeration in these statements, or some extravagance
on the part of the visitor so charged. We were ourselves charged at
no excessive rate. The Angleterre and Grand Hotels, with superior
arrangements, I believe, charged a good deal more. But there are other
and more moderate hotels, such as the Hotel de France and the Hotel des
Ambassadeurs, which, however, are both in the town itself, and not so
well situated as those I have already named.
* * * * *
We remained at Biarritz till 13th October, nearly four weeks, and
enjoyed it very much, although for a considerable part of the time,
particularly during the earlier part, east and north–east winds, said
to be unusual, prevailed, rendering the place for the time being cold,
and giving us a taste of what winter weather is there, a visitor
informing us that he had not found it colder in winter. If, however,
it be no colder on winter days than what we did experience, it could
hardly be described as trying for persons in good, strong health; but
the prevailing winds are west and south–west, both mild and salubrious,
though sometimes the south wind blows, and brings with it, in the hot
months, the parching heat of the sirocco.
Biarritz is a place of very recent growth. Formerly nobody but English
people, for the sake of the bathing it afforded, frequented it.
Afterwards the civil war of succession in Spain brought many of the
best Spanish families to live in it as a frontier town and among others
the Countess de Montijo and her two daughters, one of whom became the
wife of Napoleon III. Her fondness for the place induced the Emperor
to build the Villa Eugenie as a marine residence, and so, practically,
made this delightful watering–place.