Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
There may be said to be two bays, one north and one south; the first
lying between the lighthouse and the pier, and the second upon the
Basque beach. In the centre of the north bay the Villa Eugenie reposes
on a rocky eminence, 40 or 50 feet above the shore to the east of the
town, and is seen from many points. East and west of it, the sloping
beach, a fine sandy one, stretches away on the right hand to the steep
rocks, about 70 feet high, under the lighthouse, resting on a jutting
promontory forming the eastern enclosing arm, to the rocks on the west,
among which, looking down the small harbour, may be seen the town lying
above and back from them. Westward from the Villa Eugenie, perhaps
about half a mile distant, an imposing range of lofty hotels—the Grand
Hotel and the Angleterre, with the Casino between them, all towering
many storeys high—meets the view, and beyond them we see the spire of a
large town church; and then still beyond, outward to the sea, running
to a point, a range of high rocks or small hills which enclose the bay
on the west. Some of the hilly rocks are surmounted by houses, and one
prominent one by a semaphore or signal station. The rocks afford some
shelter to the beach from the fury of the waves, but are themselves
gradually giving way. No doubt at one time they formed a strong natural
breakwater and better barrier, and extended well out into the ocean;
but year by year they are succumbing to the force of the Atlantic and
the storms which visit the Bay of Biscay.
[Illustration: PORT–VIEUX BATHING ESTABLISHMENT, BIARRITZ.]