Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
In the centre of the north bay, and to the westward of the Villa
Eugenie, a short promenade has been formed, on or adjoining which the
great bathing establishment has been erected, the beach here being
called the Grande Plage, in contradistinction to the other beaches.
From the west end of it the road winds up below the Casino and past the
Angleterre, and along by the top of the rocks overlooking the harbour,
and through a tunnel under one of the hills to what was intended to be
a breakwater, but is now a sort of pier, at which no vessels ever lie,
becoming, therefore, only a place people stroll to in moderately calm
weather, to watch the waves dashing upon and over the rocks in wild
beauty. In rough weather no one dare venture. From this pier the road
winds back towards the town and southward round the Port–Vieux, and
through a gap in the rocks to the sandy Basque beach, which extends
away southward for miles, the rocks rising perpendicularly from it,
perhaps 80 feet high, the curve of the rocks forming the south bay.
From any of the heights about the Port–Vieux or the Basque, one can
see along the coast 20 miles to the entrance of the Bidassoa (the
boundary there between France and Spain), and then on from that to the
coast–line of Spanish mountains (offering a strong barrier against the
aggression of the sea) for at least 40 miles farther, some even saying,
though I should doubt it, seen 100 miles altogether. Southward the
range of the Pyrenees bounds the horizon, the eye being caught by the
Trois Couronnes or three–cornered or peaked mountain, rising boldly as
commander of this battalion of the great guardian mountain chain.