Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
The establishment at the Grande Plage is much the largest, but we
always gave the preference to the Port–Vieux, where the Empress
formerly used to sit and watch the bathers if she did not bathe
herself. The town and road are high above it, and descending by a
handsome stone staircase, one is confronted at the bottom by the ticket
office, where (those not bathing can without charge go down to the
beach) those intending to bathe pay according to their requirements,
usually from half a franc to a franc each, the assistance of a bathing
man being charged half a franc additional. No gratuities are expected,
but a box at the dressing–room entrance–door modestly appears, into
which those who choose may in passing drop a coin now and then. Bathers
can be supplied with a bathing dress, and have it washed, but most
people naturally prefer to have their own habiliments.
* * * * *
Bathing is the great occupation of the visitors. Many bathe twice
a day, and some, I believe, all the year round, wind and weather
permitting. The sea is full of saline particles, and is usually warm,
while the atmosphere is also warm and salubrious, so that bathing is
even advantageous to those who dare not venture on it in the British
Isles. Unless the wind be blowing, say, from the north–west, it is
almost always possible to obtain a dip. To call a bathe there a dip,
however, would be exceedingly inappropriate. It is a steady, serious
occupation of some duration, and more or less protracted according to
the heat of the weather and the enthusiasm of the bather. The times for
bathing are in the morning before breakfast, after breakfast between
ten and twelve, and in the afternoon between three and six. During
the bathing hours spectators in crowds, perhaps not so numerous and
certainly not so noisy as at Ramsgate on a forenoon, but stationed
upon every available point, or quietly standing or sitting on rocks,
sands, or chairs, or on the steps or balconies of the establishments,
amusedly watch the performances, which are extremely interesting, and
to British eyes peculiar. At the Port–Vieux special vantage–ground is
gained by the road, which, like a gallery, envelopes the three sides,
and being higher than the roof of the building, enables the passers–by
to peer down from perhaps 50 feet above on the aquatic sport below.