Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
For ladies and gentlemen array themselves in bathing costume, in which
they march down to the water from the establishment—the ladies in
general wearing over all a cloak or shawl, which they drop ere they
reach the edge, and it is taken charge of by a friend or a bathing man.
The ladies’ habit, of which the fanciful patterns (possibly imagined
and engraved in far–away Paris) exhibited in dressmakers’ shop windows
afford but a faint and incorrect idea (as, for example, in representing
ladies appearing in lace frills, and trig, tight, little laced boots),
usually consists of a short tunic with equally short sleeves, not
reaching to the elbows, and knee–breeches reaching barely to the knees,
the tunic girt at the waste by a girdle, to which is attached in the
majority of cases, _à la_ John Gilpin, two empty yellow gourds as
floats. Then very often a straw hat is stuck upon the head, and tied
by a ribbon over the crown and broad brim and under the chin, giving
the appearance of a frightful ‘ugly;’ while on the feet are generally
worn a pair of local shoes made of canvas, with thick hemp soles,
which, decorated with devices in worsted, are very commonly worn by
the residents, and even for walking about the beach by many of the
visitors, and are sold for 2 or 3 francs per pair. The bathing dresses
vary in pattern and shape, and are of all colours. White is seldom
worn. Bright colours—red, scarlet, green, light blue, yellow, amber—are
often seen; in short, the aim with many is apparently at something
stunning, suitable for the adornment of a pretty mermaid. To add to the
effect, smart young ladies will also have their dresses embroidered,
and otherwise made attractive and bewitching, in the way only a
graceful girl knows how; and really it must be confessed that this
bloomer costume is exceedingly becoming, at all events to the younger
ladies. Stout old ladies cut a figure in it sometimes remarkable.
[Illustration: BIARRITZ BATHERS.]
The gentlemen, on the other hand, look like harlequins, for their
costume in general consists of a somewhat tight–fitting dress either
of cotton or woollen, and most commonly in stripes of two colours,
and of all colours and shades, though white and blue stripes are
the most common. Their dress costs from 6f. to 20f. (a very good
woollen one in red and black stripes cost me 13f.). Some of the old
gentlemen wear a straw hat loose on their heads, so that occasionally
it is seen floating away from the wearer by reason of an accidental
wave or submersion. I suppose the object of the straw hat is to
obtain protection against the beams of the sun, but it suggests the
uncomfortable idea that the wearer never plunges his or her head under
water, the doing of which would, I doubt not, afford equal protection
against the sun’s heat, and is in any view always necessary to prevent
a flow of blood to the brain in bathing.[46]
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