Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Away from the beach all the walks are on the high roads, which are
principally three,—to the railway station, to Bayonne, and to the
lighthouse. The distance to the lighthouse by the road is considerably
farther than by the beach, from which to the platform on the top of the
rocks whereon it stands, access is had by a steep path. From the top
of the lighthouse, 220 feet from the level of the sea to the lantern,
a most extensive view is had northward up the west coast of France,
bordered by the Landes—a low sandy coast, now planted with pine trees
to guard against the incursions of the sea—stretching 100 miles towards
Bordeaux; and in the other direction along the Spanish coast, bounded
by a chain of mountains far as the eye can see; while inland the view
extends towards the Pyrenees. A steep path leads from the lighthouse to
a small recessed platform half–way down the rock, where in calm weather
one can behold the swelling and surging sea below ever and anon dashing
against the rocks, and where men repair with long rods and lines to
fish. But in stormy weather it is dangerous even to stand on the ground
above; people are exposed to be swept away by unexpected rushes of the
sea, and many have been drowned there in consequence. The fish caught
at this platform, so far as we know, were small. Indeed, at Biarritz
there are not many caught, though the table is always supplied from
neighbouring fishing stations. Lobsters, however, seem to be plentiful.
The Villa Eugenie, between the lighthouse and the town, is an object
of interest to every one visiting Biarritz. It is shown to the public
on Mondays. Entrance is had by the west approach, where there is a
lodge and large but not elegant stabling accommodation. The grounds
are not extensive (about thirty acres in all), but sufficient for
a marine residence of the kind; nor do they exhibit much attention
to horticulture, though perhaps it is hardly fair to judge of them
in present circumstances. The house, of three storeys, commenced in
the year 1854, forms three sides of a square, with an _annexe_ (I
presume, offices) on the east side. It still belongs to the Empress,
who, of course, never occupies it now, and she will not sell or
let it. Ringing the bell, an old servant (who expects a small fee
from each party for his trouble) opens the door and shows visitors
through the house. Our troop consisted of several distinct parties,
mustering probably above a dozen persons in all. The rooms are of
comfortable size, and compose just what an Empress would consider to
be a snuggery. The dining–room is the largest room in the house, the
windows facing on one side the west to the town and sea, on another
northward to the sea and lighthouse. On a rough guess, and speaking
from recollection, it is probably from 40 to 50 feet long and from 20
to 25 feet wide, the ceiling lofty. The reception–room is comparatively
small. The bedrooms of the Emperor, Empress, and Prince are just of a
comfortable size.