Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
There are many small bedrooms, very nicely decorated,
for use of the suite or for visitors. The floors are polished, and
the staircase is so slippery that people are cautioned to take great
care in descending, the steps not being carpeted. It was melancholy
to think it was no longer possible for poor Eugenie to occupy this
delightful residence.[47] Perhaps it is the only place in France where
the Imperial arms remain, and one sees upon it also the touching
monogram ƎNE, which reads up or down. The place would to our Queen
be objectionable as being so close to a town; but to a French lady
this, no doubt, would give it additional attraction, and it must be
recollected that Biarritz in reality largely owes its existence to
the Empress having built her villa there. For this the French people
should be grateful, although it looks a little unlike it, because in
the grounds two pillars in front of a small unfinished chapel for the
Imperial family use have been much broken. This, however, may merely
have been the result of accident.
* * * * *
It is a pleasant drive to Bayonne, which lies about five miles off.
Like many other roads in France, such as at Pau, the road proceeds
a long way in a straight line, flanked by regimental rows of trees,
which, affording shade from the sun, have a peculiarly stiff effect.
Here, as elsewhere, too, contrary to the Roman beau–ideal of a road
that it should be level, this one, though straight, yields to the
inequalities of the ground, and is alternately in hollows and on
elevations. But people ought to be thankful the road is so good, for,
speaking of a time about forty years ago or more, Dr. Taylor (_Climate
of Pau_) says:—
‘There was no carriage road from Bayonne to Biarritz, the only
conveyance being _en cacolet_, which contrivance consisted of a pair
of panniers laid on the back of a horse or mule, into each of which a
traveller of equal weight, if possible, had to perch himself at the
same instant with his fellow, and to preserve their position as best
they could. In the event of one being lighter than the other, there was
a make–weight of stones put along with him in the pannier to adjust the
equilibrium.’
Judging from the specimens of comfortable Spanish ladies we saw at
Biarritz, I should pity the horse or the mule which had to carry two of
them.