Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
Few people visit Biarritz without making an excursion by railway to St.
Sebastian to see a little of Spain. It is thirty–seven miles distant
by rail, and can be easily managed in a day—in fact, going by morning
train, one is left rather too much time in St. Sebastian. Crossing
the river Bidassoa, the picturesque town of Fuenterrabia is the first
object catching the eye on the Spanish border. A halt of an hour is
made at Irun for examination of the luggage, and it is possible,
though a risk, to drive off and return in time for the train after
a hurried examination of this interesting old town, which from the
railway has an appearance of being deserted. Leaving Irun, the railway
winds its way through the mountains, and reaches St. Sebastian, which
is a tidy–looking town standing at the mouth of a river crossed by a
handsome bridge, with view out to the Bay of Biscay and to the fortress
of St. Sebastian on a hill next the sea. The town lies on the landward
side of this hill, the more modern part of it, at least, consisting of
wide streets and lofty square houses with nothing redeeming about their
aspect. Passing along the main wide street from the bridge, we arrive
at an enclosed natural harbour, a tract of sea, like a bag contracted
at the neck, through which communication is had with the bay without.
The shipping is not extensive; the harbour proper, lying on the side
nearest the sea, being small. On the south side, next the newer
portion of the town and the railway, the grand _plage_ bathing–place,
with a wooden bathing–house, is found. Behind it the mountains rise
picturesquely. It requires an order to see the fortress, which is
mainly of earthen ramparts. The town itself has little of interest
in it. Close by the railway station, however, there is a very large
wooden amphitheatre for bull–fights. Bills containing announcements
of one of these savage entertainments were placarded on the building
and the railway stations and elsewhere. The dwellings on the line of
railway are similar to those about Biarritz, principally of the Basque
style; many of them have on the top little glazed houses, sort of
huts, no doubt designated, according to the taste of the occupants, as
observatories, retreats, or smoking–rooms. Except for seeing a little
of Spain, I believe it is better rather to stop and see the curious old
town of Fuenterrabia.
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After 1st October a very marked change came over the appearance of
Biarritz. Nearly all of the Spanish and French visitors (coming no
doubt for the gaiety) then left, while the English influx for the
winter season had scarcely begun. During the first fortnight of this
month the town wore a deserted look, and this was greatly aggravated by
many of the shops commencing to pack up for migration to other places,
and one after another closing. I daresay, a month later, there would be
more life in the place.
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