Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
We had all experienced the greatest benefit from our short residence
of about a month in Biarritz, and although the weather was, during
the greater part of the time, especially at first, very cold, in
consequence of the northeasterly winds, we felt that our invalid
especially had derived great good from the ‘soothing and invigorating
air;’ so much so that we fondly thought, owing to this and the former
changes, she was now in recovered health, and that it only wanted
another winter in the Riviera to set her completely up. Biarritz is
considered too cold a place for delicate persons to winter in, and
the approach of its winter season would in any view have warned us
away. But we did feel extremely reluctant to leave; for this agreeable
watering–place had quite taken our fancy, and perhaps we felt the
leaving all the more that we had not seen it in its stern grandeur
of a storm, or even in its wild grandeur of a cloudy sunset, while,
under the influence of a gentle wind blowing from the south, the day
upon which we left was one of the finest and sunniest we had had while
there. Having a good hour before departure, we visited all the beaches
and rocks, and lingered sorrowfully upon the scenes now so radiant in
sunshine and so genial in their warmth, where we had spent pleasant
times, and thence looked out upon the bright sparkling ocean gleaming
below us, and the waves gently kissing the shore and bidding us adieu,
and with unwilling steps returned to our hotel to leave for Pau. This
leave–taking is one of the penalties to be paid for the pleasure of
travelling in bright spots where everything has combined to make one
happy—where the scenes are new and pleasing, where the object of travel
seems to have been secured, and where hearts in perfect harmony and
with congenial likings are able to appreciate the blessings they have
thus been privileged together to enjoy.
XIX.
_PAU._
ENGAGING a small omnibus for 8 francs to Bayonne, five miles distant,
we left Biarritz at 12.25 for the 1.45 train to Pau. The station at
Bayonne for Pau in one direction, and Bordeaux in another, is on the
north side of the Adour, so that we had to cross the long bridge over
that river. The day was glorious, and the Adour, by whose banks we
proceeded part of the way, was looking very fine.
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