Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
We again, on leaving Mentone, took a carriage to San Remo, and
fortunately had a quiet and warm sunny day for the drive. The dust lay
thick on the road, but there was no wind to raise it. The loveliness
of the ride was the one atoning circumstance to put against all the
pain of parting with friends, and leaving a place with which so many
happy recollections were associated. We little thought we were bearing
away from it one—then in apparent good health, and, fond of travel,
thoroughly appreciating all that she saw—who would never see it again;
for the regret of leaving was tempered with the hope that it might be
our privilege, though it might not be absolutely needful, to return in
a future year to this bright land of the olive and fig tree, the lemon
and orange—this land of cloudless sky and cheering sun.
* * * * *
After leaving Ventimiglia, we looked out for the Roman amphitheatre
which had been discovered and was being excavated, but could not find
the place, and our driver was unable to render us any information
or assistance. We were now in the heart of the scenery forming the
_locale_ of that deeply–interesting story, _Dr. Antonio_; and on
the previous occasion our driver, I believe, pointed out to us the
veritable house in which Sir John Davenne and his heavenly daughter had
their abode. After paying a passing visit to friends in Bordighera, we
soon afterwards were again in San Remo.
We remained three weeks at San Remo, and during our stay had a good
deal of wind blowing from the west, and cold air with heavy rain, and
consoled ourselves by thinking that the wind being in that direction,
was probably more felt at Mentone. On leaving, we proceeded by train
to Alassio, about twenty–eight miles along the coast eastward. We had
heard Alassio a good deal spoken of, and wished to see it. It is as
yet only visited by casual travellers, and it has not become a place
of common winter resort for invalids. Had we not written for rooms,
we might not have found any carriage waiting to take us to the Hotel
de Rome, which was at the time the only hotel, I believe, to which
English people could go. It was a drive of about a mile from the
station (principally through the long narrow streets of the town) to
the hotel, which fronts the beach, just out of and to the west of the
town. It is a comparatively new house, and the accommodation is fairly
good and clean. Another hotel, ‘The Grand,’ on a much larger scale, has
been built, also fronting the sea, but about the middle of the town.
It was not, however, then opened, and the situation did not seem so
desirable, though nearer the station.