Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
We found Alassio to be one of those little Italian coast towns in the
Riviera which are by no means attractive in themselves. The population
is said to be 5500, so that it is of some extent. It is dirty and
disagreeable, and unfortunately, like some others, is not shelved away
upon an avoidable eminence, but is stuck down upon the very best part
of the shore. The towers of the cathedral and other churches, and the
structure of the houses, combine to give it, at a little distance,
a picturesque appearance. A sandy beach forms the shore, on which,
opposite the town, many fishing boats lay. The sands, of a pale yellow
or white, though they may afford good bathing, are not interesting,
shells and sea–weed being scarce. The town lies at the head or in the
centre of a bay formed by two projecting capes or protecting arms,
the Capo della Melle on the west and the Capo S. Croce on the east.
Between these two points the distance may, I suppose, be about three
miles. A semicircular cordon of hills runs back from their termini, and
with an inner circle surrounds and hems in Alassio lying in the basin
below. The slopes of most of the hills, at least of the inner circle,
are covered with olive, carroube, and other trees, giving them a
richly–wooded aspect; but the hills themselves do not rise to any great
altitude. They are sufficiently high and close upon the town to give
much—perhaps, in summer, too much—shelter to Alassio, and to afford
room for supposing that it might become, on a smaller scale, another
Mentone for winter residence. Possibly if no old Italian town had
existed there, and everything could be laid out anew, Alassio might be
made a good place and suitable for strangers; but the great drawbacks
to it for residence, and not regarding it from a medical point of view,
are the existence of this old dirty town, which usurps nearly the
whole of the shore space, and is far from attractive, and the confined
or limited situation. I believe that many fine walks may be found
about it, but the mountains lack the height and picturesque grandeur
of those of Mentone, and there seem to be no valleys and rivers to
offer variety. Some English families, however, have been so pleased
with it as to have built houses there, for permanent occupation, on
the slopes of the hills. One of these we visited—that of Mr. Gibb, a
Scotch gentleman. Its position is commanding, and derives shelter from
the hills behind; and from the terraces overlooking the town, the views
were fine. The ground was laid out in the style of hanging gardens,
full of orange trees. At leaving, Mr. Gibb kindly caused a basketful
of oranges to be plucked and given to us, and they were of the most
delicious flavour; indeed, I believe the Alassio oranges are noted for
their excellent quality. Although a little society is to be found at
Alassio, it struck me as a dull place of residence except to those who
are fond of retirement. A great improvement to the town would be the