Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
We arrived at Turin about eight o’clock in the evening, and found
quarters in the Ligurie, a large, new, first–class hotel, not far
from the station. The double windows, thick shutters, and the cloth
curtains outside the bedroom doors, were suggestive of what descent
in temperature there may sometimes be in Turin; but except a little
cold and damp in the evening, resulting from the rain which had fallen
before our arrival, we had it warm and sunny during the three days we
remained there. The following forenoon we devoted to a long drive in
and about Turin. The streets are exceedingly regular and wide, and the
houses being lofty and the town of considerable extent and full of
handsome public buildings and monuments, Turin has all the appearance
of a capital; but though a city upwards of 2000 years old, there is
about it quite a modern air. The view along several of the streets
is terminated by a grand vista of snowy mountains, and one of the
sights of Turin—indeed, its great sight—is the view obtained from it
of the Alps. To witness this in perfection, it should be seen from a
commanding height early in the morning of a clear day. We accordingly,
soon after breakfast, driving past the public park and gardens, and
round an imposing quadrangular building called the Castel di Valentino,
and crossing the river Po by a stone bridge of five arches, were
deposited at the foot of the steep hill on which the Capuchin Monastery
is built. Here, by a road winding round the hill, we walked to the top,
and from the plateau beheld the most magnificent mountain prospect I
had ever seen, or which I suppose is visible in Europe. Right in front
of us, against a sky all but clear, rose the great range of the snowy
Alps, stretching far as the eye could reach to right and left, the
nearest being only about fifteen miles distant, but seeming much nearer
as seen through a transparent atmosphere over a range of low hills
lying in front of them. Monte Viso, conical in shape, about forty–five
miles to the south–west, in which the river Po finds its source, rises
prominently like a huge tusk, the rest like an enormous jaw, in wavy
line of peaks or serrated folds. Between the river Po, flowing below,
and the mountains, the ground appears one vast level plain, on which
the city rests in regular lines of lofty houses, the monotony being
broken by the numerous towers and domes of the public buildings; and
conspicuous among them is the great ugly peculiar square dome of the
Jewish Synagogue, a far from pleasing object. In a different direction,
away to the north–east, we saw the Superga or Royal Mausoleum, built
on the crest of a hill much higher than the monastery, and commanding
a fully better view. To visit it and the royal tombs is a day’s
excursion, and we gave it up. The royal palace was among the places
in town which we visited. Its magnificent rooms are reached by a
truly regal staircase of marble adorned by sculpture. The armoury, an