Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
interesting exhibition, is not far from the palace. A long room in it
is filled with figures of men–at–arms on horseback clad with the armour
of different periods.
The streets of Turin are to a large extent lined by arcades, and no
doubt in bad weather, and especially in snowstorms, such a method of
construction must be useful, the shops, however, being generally placed
under them.
Turin possesses many fine monuments. One of the finest is that to
Cavour, inscribed, ‘A Camillo Cavour nato a Torino il x. Agosto
MDCCCX., morto il vi. Giugno MDCCCLXI.’ A kneeling female figure,
representing doubtless Italia, is presenting him with a garland; while
below, the base is adorned by emblematical figures at least life–size,
and, like the statue, of white marble—all very tasteful. Another and
very singular monument is that to the Duke of Genoa. His horse falls to
the ground on its knees wounded, and the rider, the Duke, sitting on
the horse, is resting one foot on the ground and waving his sword.
We had a Sunday in Turin, and in the morning went into the cathedral.
It is a large building, not very imposing; but inside it is dark, and
the dirtiest church we had seen in Italy, which is saying a good deal.
To Protestants, the Waldensian Church is a place of great interest.
Unfortunately we had been informed at the hotel that the Italian
service was in the morning, and the French service in the afternoon;
and we therefore attended service in the morning, in the English Church
in the yard immediately behind it. Returning in the afternoon, we found
our informant was mistaken; the French service had been in the morning,
the afternoon service was in Italian. The church, which is a large one,
was scantily attended by a shifting congregation of the poorer classes
of Italians. Many, apparently Roman Catholics, just entered to see what
was doing, and after a few minutes went out again, to be replaced by
others. As we understood little of what was said, we did not stay the
service out. We learned at dinner from a lady who had been there in the
forenoon, that the morning service had been in French, that the church
was crowded by a most respectable congregation, and that the whole
service was most interesting.
Turin is a place in which a few days can be well spent, and an
excursion is not unfrequently made from it to the Waldensian valleys,
part of the way to which is by railway.
* * * * *