Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers — John Stuart Mill — John Shaqi
Wintering in the Riviera: With Notes of Travel in Italy and France, and Practical Hints to Travellers
John Stuart Mill · en
The arrangements of the railways in regard to stations correspond in
some degree with our own; but they have their specialties, into which
I need not enter. The system of _salles–d’attente_ and of registration
of luggage necessitate stations being built on a much larger scale than
our own. Sometimes tickets are collected before arriving at the _gare_,
but more frequently are inconveniently taken at the narrow _sortie_
or _uscita_ from the passengers encumbered with luggage. Outside
the station a host of porters and _commissionaires_ of hotels is
immediately encountered, and beyond this crowd, often largely swelled
by mere idle onlookers, and perhaps by an occasional pickpocket, a long
line of omnibuses and cabs. It is the practice in many, perhaps most
places, for every hotel to keep an omnibus which goes to the station
for every train. Probably there is some jealousy lest cab–drivers or
general omnibus conductors might beguile or be bribed to beguile the
visitors to certain hotels; but whether it be from this cause or from
ostentation, the consequence is that there is waiting for employment
a number of conveyances altogether out of proportion to the number of
passengers requiring conveyance. I have counted at Mentone, waiting
arrival of a train, twenty omnibuses, inclusive of a general one, with
their respective drivers and conductors, and nearly as many cabs;
while the number of passengers leaving the train would not exceed
twenty in all, of whom probably not three would require conveyance. The
maintenance of these omnibuses must be attended with heavy expense to
the hotelkeepers; and although it can by no means pay for the expense,
the charge against the visitor is heavy. The general omnibus, with a
few specially–adapted cabs, would suffice in most places for all the
traffic. It is melancholy to see the almost hourly procession of empty
‘buses, relieved only occasionally by one of them exhibiting in triumph
a solitary occupant, and perhaps bearing five or six large boxes on its
top. In Paris and Toulouse, and some other places, there are little
district or family omnibuses holding four or six persons, unconnected
with any hotel—a far better arrangement.
The charge for a seat in the omnibus is usually, in a town or general
omnibus, without luggage, either 30 or 50 centimes; with luggage, 1
franc. The hotel omnibuses never charge less than 1 franc per person;
and with luggage it is usually 1½ francs. If a party consist of four,
it has thus to pay 6 francs or 5s. for the drive to the hotel, which is
expensive; and it is much cheaper, if there be not heavy luggage, for
which the cabs are seldom adapted, to take a cab. This cannot easily
be done at leaving the hotel, as the guests are expected to employ the
hotel omnibus, which is charged as matter of course in the bill.