Cévennes Mountains (France); France -- Description and travel
When Scutarius, the second bishop of Le Puy, was buried, a monument
was erected over him. To save the trouble of shaping a stone for the
purpose, the mason of that day took a slab on which was an inscription,
"Adidoni et Augusto Sex. Tolonius musicus D. S. P.," turned this about
and carved on the other side a monogram of Christ, and under that
"Scutari Papa vive Deo." The form of the letters, the title of Pope
applied to the bishop, not yet restricted to the pontiff at Rome, and
the expression of hope so like those found in the Catacombs, speak for
the antiquity of this inscription. But it was not allowed to remain
where placed; when the present cathedral was built, this stone was
employed as lintel to one of the north doorways.
The oldest building in Le Puy is the baptistery of S. John, near to
the cathedral. It was much altered in the Middle Ages, but is still an
interesting relic of the fourth century. From it was removed the white
marble sarcophagus of the fifth century, now in the museum of the town,
on which are figured the cure of the paralytic, the cursing of the
barren fig tree, and other scriptural themes.
This baptistery was in use till 1791, as the exclusive place where
children of Le Puy could be christened. In this Le Puy resembled
Florence, Pisa, and other North Italian towns, where baptism was a
sacrament reserved for administration at the Mother Church.
The fame acquired by Le Puy as the chief seat of the worship of the
Virgin dates from an early but unknown period. Charlemagne in 803
founded ten poor canonries _la pauperad_ in connection with the
church; but the great prosperity of the church as an attractive point
for pilgrims is due to a black image said to have been brought from
the East by Louis IX. But as it happens, the Eastern Church does not
tolerate carved images, and contents herself with paintings of sacred
subjects. Le Puy was, however, an objective of pilgrimage long before
that, for in 1062, Bernard, Count of Bigorre, went thither, and in a
fit of devotion vowed himself and his county to Our Lady of Le Puy, and
undertook to pay to this church annually a considerable sum of money.
High above the altar is now set up what looks like an Aunt Sally at
a fair. It has a black head, from which the garments are spread out
like the feathers of a shuttlecock. But this is not the original
doll, for that was burned at the Revolution. One might have supposed,
perhaps expected, that the clergy on returning to the church would have
rejoiced to be rid of such an object of degrading superstition. But
not so, they had another black virgin made by a joiner, and dressed it
in frills and furbelows, and set it up to receive the adoration of the
ignorant and the stupid. One thing they did change; the new doll was
made a little less grotesque and uncouth than was the first, of which
representations remain.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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