Across the Equator: A Holiday Trip in JavaReid, Thomas H.
History
Across the Equator: A Holiday Trip in Java
Reid, Thomas H.
Java (Indonesia) -- Description and travel; Java (Indonesia) -- History
"The temple stands on a broad platform, and rises first in five
square terraces, inclosing galleries or processional paths
between their walls, which are covered on each side with
bas-relief sculptures. If placed in single line, these
bas-reliefs would extend for three miles. The terrace walls hold
four hundred and thirty-six niches or alcove chapels, where
life-size Buddhas sit serene upon lotus cushions. Staircases
ascend in straight lines from each of the four sides, passing
under stepped or pointed arches, the keystones of which are
elaborately carved masks, and rows of sockets in the jambs show
where wood or metal doors once swung. Above the square terraces
are three circular terraces, where seventy-two latticed dagabas
(reliquaries in the shape of the calyx or bud of the lotus)
inclose each a seated image, seventy-two more Buddhas sitting in
those inner, upper circles, of Nirvana, facing a great dagaba,
or final cupola, the exact function or purpose of which as key
to the whole structure is still the puzzle of archaeologists.
This final shrine is fifty feet in diameter, and either covered
a relic of Buddha, or a central well where the ashes of priests
and princes were deposited, or is a form surviving from the
tree-temples of the earliest primitive East when nature-worship
prevailed. The English engineers made an opening in the solid
exterior, and found an unfinished statue of Buddha on a platform
over a deep well-hole."
[Illustration]
We read this description among others before we visited the Boro Budur,
and must confess that from none of them did we get a correct idea of
what we were to see. It must be seen to be realised. Not even
photographs give a true conception of the ornate character of the
decorative stonework--the hard but freely-worked lava stone having lent
itself easily to the chisel. Like Cologne or Milan Cathedrals, it must
be examined minutely to grasp the elaborateness of the sculptured work,
but, unlike either of these, it does not produce an immediate impression
of grandeur and religious elevation. It is unlike any of the temples in
Japan, or, indeed, anywhere, though Ceylon and India may suggest
comparisons.
What will strike the visitor as he perambulates these miles of
sculptured terraces is the complete absence of any offensive or indecent
figure. Mere nudity is not, of course, an outrage to the artistic soul;
but here there is not even a nude or grotesque figure. Each is draped in
the fine flowing robes of the East, not in monotonous regularity but
suggestive of prince and peasant, princess and maids, down even to the
jewels they wear. Strangely enough, no particularly Javanese type of
face or figure is represented--all are Hindu, Hindu-Caucasian and pure
Greek.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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