An Explorer's Adventures in TibetLandor, Arnold Henry Savage
History
An Explorer's Adventures in Tibet
Landor, Arnold Henry Savage
Tibet Autonomous Region (China) -- Description and travel
When darkness came I placed a guard a little distance off our camp. It
seemed likely that the Tibetans might make a rush on our tent if they
had a chance. One of us kept watch all night outside the tent, while
those inside lay down in their clothes, with loaded rifles by their
side. I cannot say that either Dr. Wilson or I felt very uneasy, for the
Tibetan soldiers, with their clumsy matchlocks, long spears, and
jewelled swords and daggers, were more picturesque than dangerous.
FOOTNOTES:
[Footnote 1: A kind of ox with long hair.]
[Footnote 2: Old muskets fired by a fusee, with a prong to rest the
barrel on.]
CHAPTER VI
ENCOUNTER WITH A HIGH TIBETAN OFFICIAL
Early the next morning we were roused by the distant sound of tinkling
horse-bells. On looking out of the tent I saw a long row of pack-ponies
heavily laden, escorted by a number of mounted soldiers with matchlocks
and spears. It was evident that some high official was coming. This
advance-guard consisted of his inferior officers and baggage. They took
a long sweep far away from our tent, and dismounted at the Gyanema fort.
Other soldiers and messengers were constantly arriving in groups from
all directions. The leader of one party, with a large escort of
soldiers, was received with profuse salaams. I concluded that he must be
an important person.
After some time a message was sent to us that this new-comer, the Barca
Tarjum, wished to have the honor of seeing us. His rank might be
described as that of a feudal prince. We replied that we were having our
breakfast, and that we would send for him when we wished to speak to
him. Our experience had taught us that it was better to treat Tibetan
officials as inferiors, as they were then more subdued and easier to
deal with. At eleven, we sent a messenger to the fort, to say we should
be pleased to receive the Tarjum. He came immediately with a large
following. He was a picturesque figure dressed in a long coat of green
silk of Chinese shape, with large sleeves turned up, showing his arms up
to the elbow. He had a cap similar to those worn by Chinese officials,
and he was shod in heavy, long black boots, with large nails under the
soles. His long, pale, angular face was remarkable in many ways. It was
dignified and full of repose. Though somewhat weak, his features were
rather fine. Long hair fell in loose curls down to his shoulders.
Hanging from his left ear was a large ear-ring, with malachite ornaments
and a pendant. In his nervous fingers he held a small roll of Tibetan
material, which he used with both hands as a handkerchief. He blew his
nose inconsequently every time he was at a loss to answer a question.
The Tarjum and his men were profuse in their bows, and there was, as
usual, a great display of tongues.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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