Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces — John Shaqi
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
From this mosque of the middle fortress, Orta Hisar Jamisi, the
ancient cathedral, it is but a few steps to the bridge over the
western ravine. Like its fellow on the east of the enclosure,
it consists of a lofty stone embankment, with a single narrow
arch through which the stream flows. The prospect on either side
is of great beauty, while the deep shadows of the vegetation,
rising from the floor of the ravine, rest the eye and refresh the
sense. Towards the south, beyond an irregular line of ivy-grown
parapets, and towers of varying features and size, the stately
works of palace and citadel rise against the sky; while in the
direction of the sea, where the depression flattens and is lost
in a maze of houses, the tiers of red-tiled roofs are pierced by
a double series of battlements and embowered forts. The wall of
the middle fortress is seen extending for some distance along
the uneven edge of its rocky support; but it is overpowered in
the landscape by the outer line of walls, which, starting from
the opposite side of the ravine, are drawn in a long perspective
to the shore.
Our goal is now the famous church of Hagia Sophia; it is
situated upon the coast on the west of the city, at a distance
of over a mile from the walls (No. 25). The bridge leads over
into the western suburb, and for a short space you follow the
outer wall of the lower fortress, stretching westwards at right
angles to the ravine. On the right hand this solid masonry and
a massive rectangular tower; on the left, a little further on,
the cypresses of the Turkish burying-field, the leaning white
headstones with their gilt Arabic inscriptions better disposed
and tended than is usually the case. We have passed the street
which turns upwards to the mosque Khatunieh (No. 20), the spacious
and still well-ordered mosque and medresseh which keeps alive the
memory of the mother of Selim the First. Like the middle and lower
fortress, this western suburb is inhabited for the most part by
Mohammedans--what a contrast to the bustling town on the east of
the city where the Christian quarters lie! There, busy streets,
lined with the broad-paned windows of offices and shops; here,
the silent graveyard and widely scattered dwellings which seem
to shrink from contact with life. A brighter aspect belongs to
the meidan or open place, to which we pass and which we cross
(Kavak Meidan, or plane tree square)--an extensive stretch of
green turf, resembling an English common, where in old times the
jerid or spear exercise was performed. Several tombs (kumbets)
are to be seen on this grassy lawn, but I do not know to whom they
have been raised. A little later we have left the last settlements
behind us, and are winding outwards towards the sea-shore.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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