Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
The church of Hagia Sophia, or the Divine Wisdom, now converted
into a mosque, has been described as one of the most interesting
monuments of Byzantine architecture, sculpture, and painting
that time has spared. [2] This appreciation can only be partially
tested by the traveller of the present day, because the frescos
which once covered the interior of the building have been daubed
over with successive coats of whitewash. It is possible that
when the time comes for restoring the building to Christian
worship, or at least, as we may hope, for preserving it as a
relic to instruct an enlightened age, the scales may fall away
and disclose in some of their ancient brightness the solemn faces
and gorgeous robes of the Grand-Comneni as they looked down upon
the congregation of monks and pilgrims six centuries ago. In
the meanwhile we may consult those descriptions of the paintings
which have come down to us in the accounts of modern travellers
more fortunate than ourselves, for at some periods a portion of
the plaster has fallen and revealed the rich work below. Of the
sculpture and architectural merits we are able to judge on the
spot, for, although the Turks have introduced some alterations
in the structure, they are too clumsy to mislead.
The first view of the building, high-seated on the left hand
where the road debouches upon the sands, at once exhibits the
beauties which are peculiar to it: the choice of site and the
skilful grouping of the component parts (Fig. 3). A broad terrace
or esplanade, which is partly natural and in part supported by
an embankment and a wall, forms the summit of a gentle slope
which rises from the water beyond a fringe of cactus and leafy
shrubs. The surface of the platform is flat and even, and is
covered by a green carpet of turf. The prospect ranges wide
across the bay to Cape Ieros, and seawards without limit over
the waves. On the east, rising ground shuts out the city and the
suburb, while on the south, the open landscape of hill and valley
is felt rather than observed.
From the peaceful elevation of this pleasant terrace the
well-preserved remains of an ancient monastery look down upon the
shore. On the west, at the further extremity of the platform,
a lofty square bell-tower or campanile stands out alone, like
a sentinel, fronting the sea; just below it lies the church,
a cluster of roofs and gables centring in a drum-shaped dome. Of
the monastic buildings only one has been spared, a massive square
edifice at the south-western corner of the platform, which is
almost concealed by trees.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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