Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian ProvincesLynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
History
Armenia, Travels and Studies (Volume 1 of 2): The Russian Provinces
Lynch, H. F. B. (Harry Finnis Blosse)
Armenia
This plaque has been placed just above the
window and below the talons of the royal bird.
The reader will have divined that the great charm of this façade
lies as much in the skill of the design--the wide span of the
arch above the lesser arches, and the pleasing combination of
these forms with the vertical lines of walls and columns, and
with the sharp angle of the roof--as in the decorative effect
of delicate mouldings and elaborate sculptures, and of rich
mosaics thrown on the grey stone. Porches of similar plan give
access to the interior, both on the western and northern sides;
but their tympana or panels are without ornament. The western
porch has an Arab niche with a deep honeycomb moulding from
which the outer arch springs, and this moulding is continued
in the form of imposts above the capitals of the columns. That
on the north is without any remarkable feature, except that the
capitals, which are of fresh white marble, appear to be of much
later date. They are without carving, but in each is cut a panel,
bearing the figure of a Latin cross.
A walk round the building confirms the impression which a first
view produced. It is the number of roofs at various levels, the
different grouping of the gables at every turn, that arrests and
pleases the eye. The walls themselves are of hewn stone, with
plain mouldings, of which the most delicate runs round the apse
and side chapels, above the windows, in a continuous band. On the
face of the apse itself you see the eagle of the Grand-Comneni,
set in panel in the wall.
The entrance to the mosque is through the porch on the west. It
is much shorter or less deep than its two counterparts, but,
unlike them, gives access through a marble doorway to a second
vestibule or outer court. This court or narthex extends the whole
width of the building, and is both lofty and well lit. A door
opens from it into the church proper, an airy interior of pleasing
proportions, into which the light streams from the twelve windows
in the circumference of the dome (Fig. 5). Four massive marble
pillars with carved Byzantine capitals support the pendentives
from which the dome springs; but the sharpness of the sculpture
has been obliterated by thick coats of buff and green paint. The
Turks have also introduced some structural changes. The southern
porch has been thrown into the body of the building, and an altar
(mihrab) placed between the two columns which properly belong
to the façade. In this manner the porch, with its orientation
towards Mecca, has become the religious focus of the mosque;
a wooden gallery, from which my illustration was taken, has been
erected against the opposite wall. The apse, which is lit by three
windows, is supplemented by two smaller apses or side chapels at
the extremities of the aisles.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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