Bad Drains; and How to Test Them: With notes on the ventilation of sewers, drains, and sanitary fittings, and the origin and transmission of zymotic diseaseReeves, R. Harris
Science
Bad Drains; and How to Test Them: With notes on the ventilation of sewers, drains, and sanitary fittings, and the origin and transmission of zymotic disease
Reeves, R. Harris
Sewerage
If the indiarubber pipe to the detector or pressure gauge is placed in
either of the traps marked 1, and the glass tube filled with liquid up
to the data line, 5 pints of water poured into either of the traps
marked 1, will produce a rise of 1 inch in the liquid of the detector,
that is if all the drains are clear and joints tight, the drains being
stopped off for testing at A.
Should a trap be fixed anywhere between A and B a lesser quantity will
be required to lift the liquid, and the position of the trap can be
determined by comparing the exact quantity of water used with the
capacity or quantity of gas in the drain.
If a trap should be fixed or a stoppage formed in any part of the drain
A B, the flushing of a closet or sink would, by the compression of the
gas, force it in bulk through the weakest trap, or the one having the
least dip or seal. The quantity which would pass through would depend on
the amount of water used in the flushing and the fall of the drain.
The drains to the building having been tested, and their defects
ascertained, it will be necessary now to test the soil-pipe.
On this plan it is fixed on the outside of the house, having a trap with
an open grating just beyond the basement closet, and a ventilating pipe
carried above the eaves of the roof. Whether the soil-pipe be fixed
inside or outside of the building it should be perfectly gas-tight, and
in this testing a person cannot be too particular.
In testing the soil-pipe shown on plan, the easiest method is to put the
detector or pressure-gauge at the grating of the trap 3, placing the
indiarubber tube over the grating, and making a tight joint with clay.
Then close the top of the ventilating pipe and pour water in the top
closet, when, if the joints are tight, the liquid in the detector will
rise suddenly, and then lower itself as the water leaves the trap,
indicating that the soil-pipe is tight, but if it is not tight, no
rising of the liquid will take place. Should there be no trap at the
bottom of the soil-pipe, it will be necessary to excavate down to the
drain to take out a length of pipe, to seal the mouth of the drain with
clay for testing. If there should be leaky joints or holes in the
soil-pipe, a little sulphur burnt in the pipe, or a little pungent
essence thrown into it, will clearly denote where the leaks are.
Having tested the soil-pipe and proved it tight, or effectually stopped
all leaks as the case may be, no gas can be given off in these drains or
fittings except through the ventilators (under ordinary circumstances)
as no trap has been siphoned in the testing.
As before stated, the ventilating pipe runs to the top of the building
of the same diameter as the soil-pipe, in fact this is a plan of drains
to a house recently built in the suburbs of London, and the planning of
them would be considered perfect by many sanitary men, but before we
testify them as perfect, let us carefully analyse the working of the
ventilation.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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