Chats on CostumeRhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
History
Chats on Costume
Rhead, G. Woolliscroft (George Woolliscroft)
Clothing and dress
In the third year of the reign of Edward IV. an Act was promulgated
by which cloth of gold, cloth of silk of a purple colour, and fur
of sables were prohibited to all knights under the estate of lords.
Bachelor knights were forbidden to wear cloth of velvet upon velvet,
unless they were Knights of the Garter; and simple esquires, or
gentlemen, were restricted from the use of velvet, damask, or figured
satin, or any counterfeit resembling such stuffs, except they possessed
a yearly income to the value of £100, or were attached to the King's
Court or household.
It was also forbidden to any persons who were not in the enjoyment of
£40 yearly income to wear any of the richer furs; also girdles of gold,
silver, or silver-gilt were forbidden.
[Illustration: TRAVELLING IN A HORSE LITTER.
_From the MS. 118 Français in the Bibliothèque Nationale (late
Fourteenth Century)._]
No one under the estate of a lord was permitted to wear indecently
short jackets, gowns, &c., mentioned by Monstrelet, or pikes or
poleines to his shoes and boots exceeding two inches in length. No
yeoman, or person under the degree of a yeoman, was allowed bolsters or
stuffing of wool, cotton, or cadis in his purpoint or doublet under a
penalty of six shillings and eightpence fine, and forfeiture awarded;
the unfortunate tailor making such short or stuffed dresses, or
shoemaker manufacturing such long-toed shoes for unprivileged persons,
being under the pain of cursing by the clergy for the latter offence,
as well as the forfeit of twenty shillings--one noble to the King,
another to the cordwainers of London, and the third to the Chamber of
London.
It will readily be seen that these laws were necessarily the cause of
great hindrance to trade, which was, indeed, not the least of the evils
occasioned by these absurd laws. Richard Onslow, Recorder of London,
1565 (given in Ellis's "Original Letters," vol. ii.), describes an
interview which he had with the civic tailors, who were puzzled to know
whether they might "line a slop-hose not cut in panes, with a lining of
cotton stitched to the slop, over and besydes the linen lining straight
to the leg."
The statutory laws, however, were not the _only_ hindrance to trade,
since it would appear that during the Plantagenet period _dishonesty_
in trade was as rife as it is at the present time, and foreign
competition as keen; the conditions, however, were slightly different,
the foreign merchants obtaining high prices for their goods, instead
of dumping cheap goods into the country at low prices. The remedy was
directed to the enforcement of greater honesty in trade dealings,
rather than to fortify themselves behind tariff walls.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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