Costume: Fanciful, Historical and TheatricalAria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
History
Costume: Fanciful, Historical and Theatrical
Aria, Mrs. (Eliza Davis)
Costume -- History
In the reign of Edward IV. the peasant women reverted most wisely to
the bodice, which was cut low at the neck in a circular form; the plain
skirts were gathered at the waist, and over a white linen cap they placed
a hood and cape cut in one piece.
In the days when the greatest widower was achieving his conjugal record,
an old country-man is described as wearing a "buttoned cap" (one with
flaps over the ears, turned up and fastened with a button), a "lockram
falling band, a narrow turned-down collar of coarse linen--coarse but
clean, a russet-coat; a white belt of horse hide, right horse collar
white leather; a close round breech of russet sheep's-wool, with a long
stock of white kersey, and a high shoe with yellow buckles." A pretty
fellow, I'm convinced.
In this reign, too, ornamental braid found its place on the costumes of
the peasant women, whose bodices, cut square and edged with braid, were
laced up at the back. However, novelty, which is ever desirable, was
obtained by limiting the bodices, raising the waists, and tightening the
full sleeves at the wrists, where they were finished with a small frill.
Braid later gained further patronage, and in the reign of Mary was
allowed the privilege of ornamenting the full petticoats, when the
closely-fitting bodices were still laced in V-shape and flaunted an
upstanding collar of Medici tendency cut in one with revers. On the
top of the sleeves was a padded roll, and upon the head a quaint cap
displayed a small point in front, and bore a close resemblance in the
crown to the penny bun.
The early Elizabethan peasant woman's dress consisted of a double skirt,
the under one of serge, full, the upper one with braid round the hem,
made in a contrasting shade, and folded back to form a panier. The
tight-fitting bodice had a pointed plastron edged with ribbon on either
side, and the bodice was bound at the hem with ribbon, which tied in
a bow at the waist, a larger bow appearing at the bust, while round
the neck a gauffered frill outspread itself with stiff importance. The
sleeves were full, and the head was covered with a lawn cap, the crown
of which was full, and the curtain, turning back in front, was trimmed
with lace. Yet another style of dress worn at this period had a full
skirt braided round the hem and an upper skirt with a wider braid, the
square-cut bodice, also braided, being finished with a turned-down linen
collar. The sleeves displayed double puffs to the elbow, thence fitting
tightly to the wrist, and braid again appeared on the mob-cap of lawn,
and on the hem of the lawn apron.
This might have been the attire of many a wilful wench hieing forth on
her holiday, in the hopes of catching a glimpse of some green-clad figure
in the wake of gay Robin Hood.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account