Dawn in darkest AfricaHarris, John H. (John Hobbis)
History
Dawn in darkest Africa
Harris, John H. (John Hobbis)
Africa, West; Africa, West -- Description and travel; Ethnology -- Africa, West; Slavery -- Africa, West
The carrier is no more an angel than other human beings, no matter
whether pink or black; he has all the imperfections and the love of
self-preservation of the brother who calls himself white. I remember once
having all the loads laid out ready for the start and then giving the
order for each man to choose his load. It was evident the carriers had
mentally marked the load each would like to seize, for a dash was made
for a small box only about 18 inches square and having the appearance
of a 20 lb. load—but it was a case of cartridges weighing 80 lbs.! How
promptly they all discarded that box and dashed away for the larger but
lighter loads!
Strangely enough the carrier seldom “pilfers” on a journey. The white
man’s goods may suffer depredations on the steamer or on the train, but
on the march there seems to be a sacred community of interest which
safeguards the goods of most white men as effectively as if protected by
the spirit-haunted herbs and parrot feathers of the witch doctor, but
when civilization, in the shape of steamers and railway trains, enters
barbarous regions away goes the eighth commandment. There is one respect
in which every African traveller invariably suffers—hungry at the mid-day
hour, he calls for “chop”; thirsty, he asks for filtered water; or at
night, dead tired, he looks for his folding bed; he may call in vain,
for either from set purpose with some definite object in view, or from
stupidity, these essentials to the white man are generally “miles behind.”
[Sidenote: THE CARRIER AND NATURE]
Probably the carrier is at his best when travelling through the vast
forests, where, shielded from the sun by the interlacing trees overhead,
it is delightfully cool and the layers of dried leaves render the path
as soft and springy as the richest carpet. Carriers and traveller are
in high mood and as conversation flows freely the traveller realizes
what great students of nature these sons of Africa are. As they walk
along, they will name every tree and almost every plant; they will tell
how many moons elapse before the trees begin to bear; they will give
descriptions of edible fruits, the birds and animals which each kind of
fruit attracts, varying these running comments by periodic dashes through
the undergrowth in search of fruits to illustrate the conversation.
How closely, too, they watch the path for the footprints of animal life,
never at a fault to identify the prints with their owners, or accurately
gauge the time when the creature passed by, begging, if the traces are
recent, to be allowed to track the “meat.” As time does not concern
the hunter, it is generally wise, if there is any reasonable chance of
obtaining food for the caravan, to camp for the night. This knowledge
of forest life stands the natives in good stead, for not infrequently
provisions run out on the long marches and in the absence of human
habitations, the question of feeding the caravan becomes a serious matter.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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