More than ever before he was entertained and amused by the sights on the
beach, this spectacle of carefree, civilized people getting sensuous
enjoyment at the very edge of the elements. The grey flat sea was
already alive with wading children, swimmers, a motley of figures lying
on the sandbanks with arms bent behind their heads. Others were rowing
about in little red and blue striped boats without keels; they were
continually upsetting, amid laughter. Before the long stretches of
bathing houses, where people were sitting on the platforms as though on
small verandahs, there was a play of movement against the line of rest
and inertness behind--visits and chatter, fastidious morning elegance
alongside the nakedness which, boldly at ease, was enjoying the freedom
which the place afforded. Further in front, on the damp firm sand,
people were parading about in white bathing cloaks, in ample,
brilliantly coloured wrappers. An elaborate sand pile to the right,
erected by children, had flags in the colours of all nations planted
around it. Venders of shells, cakes, and fruit spread out their wares,
kneeling. To the left, before one of the bathing houses which stood at
right angles to the others and to the sea, a Russian family was
encamped: men with beards and large teeth, slow delicate women, a Baltic
girl sitting by an easel and painting the sea amidst exclamations of
despair, two ugly good-natured children, an old maid-servant who wore a
kerchief on her head and had the alert scraping manners of a slave.
Delighted and appreciative, they were living there, patiently calling
the names of the two rowdy disobedient children, using their scanty
Italian to joke with the humorous old man from whom they were buying
candy, kissing one another on the cheek, and not in the least concerned
with any one who might be observing their community.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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