Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and BabylonLayard, Austen Henry
History
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon
Layard, Austen Henry
Babylon (Extinct city); Middle East -- Description and travel; Nineveh (Extinct city); Scientific expeditions
As we passed through the defile
leading into the plain of Redwan, we had the appearance of a triumphal
procession, but as we approached the small town a still more enthusiastic
reception awaited us. First came a large body of horsemen, collected from
the place itself, and the neighbouring villages. They were followed by
Yezidis on foot, carrying flowers and branches of trees, and preceded by
musicians playing on the tubbul and zernai.[6] Next were the Armenian
community headed by their clergy, and then the Jacobite and other
Christian sects, also with their respective priests; the women and
children lined the entrance to the place and thronged the housetops. I
alighted amidst the din of music and the "tahlel" at the house of Nazi,
the chief of the whole Yezidi district, two sheep being slain before me as
I took my feet from the stirrups.
I took up my quarters in the Armenian church, dining in the evening with
the chiefs to witness the festivities.
The change was indeed grateful to me, and I found at length a little
repose and leisure to reflect upon the gratifying scene to which I had
that day been witness. I have, perhaps, been too minute in the account of
my reception at Redwan, but I record with pleasure this instance of a
sincere and spontaneous display of gratitude on the part of a much
maligned and oppressed race. To those, unfortunately too many, who believe
that Easterns can only be managed by violence and swayed by fear, let this
record be a proof that there are high and generous feelings which may not
only be relied and acted upon without interfering with their authority, or
compromising their dignity, but with every hope of laying the foundation
of real attachment and mutual esteem.
The church stands on the slope of a mound, on the summit of which are the
ruins of a castle belonging to the former chiefs of Redwan. It was built
expressly for the Christians of the Armenian sect by Mirza Agha, the last
semi-independent Yezidi chief, a pleasing example of toleration and
liberality well worthy of imitation by more civilised men. Service was
performed in the open iwan, or large vaulted chamber, during the
afternoon, the congregation kneeling uncovered in the yard. The priests of
the different communities called upon me as soon as I was ready to receive
their visits. The most intelligent amongst them was a Roman Catholic
Chaldæan, a good humoured, tolerant fellow, who with a very small
congregation of his own did not bear any ill-will to his neighbours. With
the principal Yezidi chiefs, too, I had a long and interesting
conversation on the state of their people and on their prospects.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Discoveries Among the Ruins of Nineveh and Babylon — John Shaqi
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