The hat was of the high-crowned type, perhaps higher than in the last reign. The brim had broadened, and feathers were placed upwards fantastically at the back and sides of crown. Brims were often fastened up on the right side with a jewel; otherwise a band was buckled in front. The hair was now allowed to fall longer again, and a pointed or square-shaped beard with a brushed-up moustache was the mode. Ruffs both large and small surrounded the neck, and a flat fan-shaped collar was seen in the earlier years. [Illustration: Plate XIV.-- (_a_) Embroidered Silk Dress with Pannier. 1765-80. (_b_) Brocade Dress and Quilted Petticoat. 1750-65. _Pattern of bodice, p. 322._] [Illustration: FIG. 60.--Costumes. Period James I.] The jerkin was close fitting and the length of the waist more normal, with less tendency to being tightened in, and not so deep in the front point, so as to set better over the very full trunks or breeches. The square tabs of the jerkin increased in size, and soon formed large flaps divided into three or four, to the centre of the back. Sleeves were fairly tight and started from slightly larger epaulets, and were usually set at the wrist, either with a small ruff or turned-up lawn cuff, edged with lace. The trunks were padded in a very full shape and were much longer, just above the knee. Also full padded-out breeches tapering to the knee or just above, where a large tie and bow hung at the side, and full square breeches not tied in, are also a feature of these days, usually banded with wide braids at ends and sides. Upright pockets were made on either side towards the front, about two inches from the side seams. They fastened up the front in a pleated fold, many being decorated with punched, pricked, or slashed design of a smallish character. [Illustration: FIG. 61.--Shapes of Shoes from 1590-1650.] Cloaks were worn longer to the knee, retaining the same shapes and braid decoration as in the Elizabethan period, and hanging sleeves were still worn on them, as well as on some of the jerkins. Shoes became fuller and rounder at the toes, mostly with thick welted soles and short heels, or none. They were fastened with a large rosette of gold lace or ribbon on the front, and the latchets were set back to show an open side. The top-boots were close fitting and took squarer toes; the spur flap being rather small. Beautifully embroidered clocks are seen on the tights and stockings of this period. SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES I. FEMALE. The hair was now allowed to fall in ringlets round the back and sides, with a few flat curls on the brow, and a bow and pearls were caught in at the sides. Short feathers may also be noted in use. A plait was often coiled at the back after 1630. [Illustration: Plate XV.-- (_a_) White Cloth Coat. 1775-90. (_b_) Silk Dress. 1740-60. (_c_) Embroidered Velvet Coat. 1755-75.] [Illustration: FIG. 62.] [Illustration: FIG. 63. Collar and Bodice types. Period Charles I.]