Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakersHughes, Talbot
History
Dress design $b: an account of costume for artists & dressmakers
Hughes, Talbot
Clothing and dress; Clothing and dress -- Great Britain
[Illustration: FIG. 64.
Collar and Bodice types. Period Charles I to 1660.]
In the early part of this reign the ladies were wearing the long
corset-bodice, with a richly decorated stomacher which curved outwards
to set on the very full skirts; this often finished with a curved or
foliated shape at the point. Square starched collars, rounded at
the back, sometimes set up at the back of the neck or flat on the
shoulder, and ruffs were still seen round the neck with collars as well,
but they were seldom met with after 1635. A plainer, deep collar, flat,
round, or =V=-shaped at the back, coming well over the shoulders, was
caught together by a bow or ornament in front. About 1630 shorter
waisted bodices came in, with full, loose sleeves set in epaulets: the
neck shape was rounded or square. The bodices were often slashed, and
the full sleeves, cut into bands, were sometimes gathered by cross bands
from one to three times. Full plain sleeves, opened in the front seam,
were also clasped at the elbow in a like manner. Outer short sleeves
became a feature, opening in the front, showing the full under one or a
tight one; the waist became very short and its tabs larger. A waistband
fastened in the stomacher with a bow either side and bows with long gold
tags decorated the waist as in the male jerkin. The skirt decorated by a
band of ornament down the front was often tied upon the corset-bodice,
the front point being left outside. Shoes of the same shape as the male
illustrations, with very square toes, were frequent, but an oval toe,
rather pointed, is seen in many pictures, with the large lace rosettes
in front. Muffs are first noticed in these days, though they were seen
much earlier on the Continent.
[Illustration: FIG. 65.--Period 1625-1660.]
SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. CHARLES I. MALE.
The hair was worn loose to the shoulders, and a small plait was
sometimes arranged on the left side, brought to the front of shoulder.
The beard was trimmed to a pointed shape, and smarter curled moustaches
were fashionable. Hats were still high in the crown, but rather lower
than with James I; the large brims were turned about in various curves,
and feathers were worn falling over the brims to the side or back.
The jerkin was high in the collar, supporting a large, square, turn-down
collar edged with pointed lace to the shoulders, or a small, plain,
turn-over collar; ruffs are very rarely seen after 1630.
[Illustration: FIG. 66.--Charles I.]
[Illustration: FIG. 67.--Period 1625-1660.]
[Illustration: FIG. 68.--Period 1625-1660.]
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