A rather short waist grew shorter during this reign, with much larger tabs, or large flaps laced to the body, forming a series of bows with long gilt tags round the waist. The body is usually decorated with long slashes from the shoulders to the breast, or the full length, and a long slashed opening is often seen in the back (presumably to give more play to the sword-thrust). The sleeve is also treated in the same way to the elbow or waist. All sleeves start from a stiff epaulet. Breeches are both very full and fairly tight, the latter edged with a purfling of silk or gold lace as well as the sides, the former shape tied either above or below the knee with a large silk bow with falling ends. They were held up by a number of hooks, fastening to a small flap with eyelets, round the inside of the doublet (see pattern 11, p. 295), and were buttoned down the front, the buttons being half hidden in a pleat. The pockets were placed vertically in the front of the thigh, and were frequently of a decorative character. A short or long circular cloak was worn, and a coat-cloak with opened sleeves is an interesting garment. These coverings were hung in various ways from the shoulders by methods of tying the cords across the body. [Illustration: FIG. 69.--Period 1625-1660.] [Illustration: FIG. 70.--Shoe shapes. Charles I to 1700. NOS. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 23. Charles I. NOS. 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 25. Charles II. NOS. 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 24, 26, 27, 28. James II and William and Mary.] [Illustration: Plate XVI.-- (_a_) Silk Brocade Dress. 1740-60. (_b_) Silk Brocade Sack-back Dress. 1755-75. _Pattern, see p. 334._ (_c_) Dress of Striped Material. 1775-85. _Pattern, see p. 335._] [Illustration: FIG. 71.--Boot shapes. Charles I to 1700. NOS. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9. Charles I. NOS. 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15. Charles II. NOS. 16, 17, 18. James II and William and Mary.] Shoes became very square at the toes, or blocked as in Fig. 70, No. 6. The fronts were set with large rosettes of silk and silver or gold lace, the heels varied much in height, that mostly favoured being a large, low heel. A quaint fashion of shoe combined with a clog sole was an interesting shape (see illustration of clogs, p. 106). Fairly tight top-boots, coming well above the knee, were often turned down. Other boots with large bell-tops, turned over or pushed down, were covered or filled with a lace or bell-shaped stocking-top. A sash was worn round the waist or across the body over the left shoulder (the length and width of these is given in the description of patterns, p. 279). A broad belt, or sword-hanger, came across the right shoulder. Gloves were beautifully embroidered in gold, pearls, or coloured silks, the gauntlets being from five to eight inches deep. SEVENTEENTH CENTURY. THE COMMONWEALTH. MALE AND FEMALE.