Second course and dessert wines are given at too great a length to admit
of reproduction. About these a “question of the highest importance”
arises as to which should be preferred. But here Francatelli remembers
a fact which might have spared him his vast labour on this service of
wines: that “it is difficult, not to say impossible, to lay down rules
for the guidance of the palate.” The sanguine person, we are told, will
prefer the _genuine_ Champagne; the phlegmatic, Sherry or Madeira. The
splenetic and melancholy man will be prone to select Roussillon and
Burgundy. The bilious will imbibe Bordeaux. In few words, “Burgundy is
aphrodisiac, Champagne is captious, Roussillon restorative, and Bordeaux
stomachic.” By careful attention to the foregoing remarks, the reader
will happily be preserved from any serious mistake in the matter of his
dinner. But other meals must also be taken into consideration, about
which Francatelli preserves a Sibylline and mysterious silence. For
instance, luncheon. We learn, however, from another source that there are
luncheon sherries and dessert sherries. With lunch the brown, rich, and
full-bodied Raro may be suitably drunk; but the pale Solera and the soft
yet nutty Oloroso should make their appearance at dessert alone.
M. Batalhai Reis, Consul for Portugal at Newcastle-on-Tyne, in a report
on the wine trade of England, has troubled himself thus in the interests
of posterity to classify the wines of the world.
CLASS I.—TABLE WINES.
Alcohol and sugar imperceptible. Taste acid and astringent.
Division A. Red.
Group 1. _Acid._ Examples: Inferior Bordeaux and Burgundies, Wines from
North of Portugal.
Group 2. _Astringent._ Examples: Superior Bordeaux and Burgundies,
Collares from Portugal.
Division B. White.
Group 1. Simple Flavour. Example: Rhine Wines.
Group 2. Complex Flavour. Example: Bucellas of Portugal.
CLASS II.—TRANSITION WINES.
Alcohol and sugar perceptible. Taste astringent. Flavour complex.
Division A. Red. Examples: Many Spanish and Portuguese wines.
Division B. White. Examples: Many Spanish and Portuguese wines.
CLASS III.—GENEROUS WINES.
1st Family. Madeira type. Wines of the Canaries, Azores, Lisbon;
Carcanellas, Sherry, Marsala, and Cyprian wines.
2nd Family. Port type.
3rd Family. Tokay, Malaga.
4th Family. Château Yquem, Johannisberg, Steinberg.
CLASS IV.—SPARKLING WINES.
Group A. Natural.
Group B. Artificial.
This division of the wines of the world is presented to the reader as a
literary curiosity. It is at once simple and scientific. In a word, no
book on wines can be considered complete without it. In the succeeding
pages Wines as Beers are, for convenience of reference, arranged after
the alphabetical order of their countries.
AFRICA: Constantias—Rota—Mascara. AMERICA:
Catawbas—Muscatel—Chacoli—Mosto. AUSTRALIA:
Carbinet—Kaludah—Verdeilho—Conatto. CANARIES:
Vidueño—Sack. ENGLAND: Home-made Wines.
AFRICA.
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